Ophelia Hirst's Wine List
Things I’ve enjoyed drinking over Summer
Summer should be all about long lunches, dipping in and out of the sea, and drinking bucketloads of rosé in the sun. Sadly, the UK had other plans this year. Rosé only softened the blow of miserable day after miserable day slightly.
However, I took solace in light bodied, slightly chilled reds instead. Not white wine cold, somewhere between 13-15 degrees does the trick. Ca’ La Bionda’s Valpolicella Classico has been hitting the spot, deliciously fruity, juicy and silky, and at a very sensible 12.5%. Another I consistently reach for is the 2022 VdP Méditerranée from Cristia, just delicious grown-up juice. And the wine rack should never be without Clos de Roilette Fleurie, or A Dos Manos Garnacha, in my opinion.
I continue my fascination and slight obsession with the wines from Marcel Deiss – so vibrant, electric and appetising. The 2022 Complantation remains a great introduction to the style, and a benchmark for the region’s blends. And who can say no to white Burgundy? (Not me). I continue to be wowed by the wines of Frantz Chagnoleau – so taut and mineral, but rich and unctuous – to use a professional description, they’re super yummy. Franck Bonville’s NV Blanc de Blancs continues to hold a place in my heart; endlessly enjoyable to drink and unreal value for money.
Things I’m looking forward to drinking in Autumn
And now for the things that feel like a big ol’ hug. I’m looking forward to tucking into a plate of Pappardelle al Ragu, washed down with Castagnoli’s Terrazze Chianti Classico, or digging into a steak with Bonnefond’s supremely elegant 2017 Les Rochins Cote-Rotie, from a plot just next to the famous (and famously expensive) La Landonne. And for the truffles! It has to be something from Piedmont, so why not Christoph Kunzli’s wacky but wonderful blend of Nebbiolo and Croatina, the 2022 La Maggiorina. I must say I’m rather looking forward to that now…
Ophelia Hirst, Buyer
2022 VIN DE PAYS MÉDITERRANÉE Grenache IGP Domaine de Cristia
Southern Rhône Rhône France 15% Red
Grenache.
A completely joyous glass of red, brimming with ripe cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruits. An immediate and succulent crowd pleaser, bags of red fruits in the mouth, underpinned by a touch of liquorice and peppery spi...(read more)
L&S2018 A DOS MANOS Garnacha A Pie de Tierra
Méntrida Cariñena Spain 14% Red
Garnacha.
This was tasted after trawling through many a Gredos Garnacha when last in Madrid, and this little unassuming wine stole the show. The very charming Aitor and winemaker David are making ethereal styles of Garnacha from t...(read more)
L&S2022 LA MAGGIORINA Le Piane
Piedmont Italy 14% Red
Croatina, Nebbiolo.
2 years in barrel, field blend 13 varieties, picked and fermented together. Aromatic, damson, dark chocolate, herbs, blackberries. Grip and intensity, rich tannins, good acid bite, dark fruit core, blackberries and choco...(read more)
L&S2022 ALSACE Complantation Domaine Marcel Deiss
Alsace France 13.5% White
Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling. Certified Organic, Bio-dynamic
2021 SAINT VÉRAN Prélude Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Mâconnais Burgundy France 12.5% White
Chardonnay.
In 2021 this has been aged in 500 litre Stockinger barrels. As ever the Prelude is an assemblage of four plots in the communes of Prissé and Chasselas, with vines about fifty years old. This vintage has pushed Fra...(read more)
L&S2016 TERRAZZE CHIANTI CLASSICO Riserva Castagnoli
Chianti Tuscany Italy 14.5% Red
Sangiovese. Certified Organic
Tasting great now, it has been drinking well for a couple of years - why wouldn't you want this with new season grouse? Grown in very hard-to-manage narrow terraces on a precipitous slope, with each vine on a pole, so ev...(read more)
L&SFRANCK BONVILLE Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Champagne Franck Bonville NV
Champagne France 12.5% White
Chardonnay.
70% 2017, with 30% reserve wines (20% 2015). This fine dry Blanc de Blancs keeps all the airiness of the classic Cote des Blanc villages (it's made from Oger and Avize), while having a rounded mid-palate thanks to the ge...(read more)
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