2012 Brunello di Montalcino: Fuligni & Collemattoni
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2012, looks to be a fantastic vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. Like 2010, it has been awarded a 5-star rating by the Consorzio Brunello.
Walter Speller of JancisRobinson.com was convinced by the number of wines he awarded 17 to 17.5 in his initial tastings (again, Fuligni is rated 17.5, the best mark he gave to any), and 17 to the Collemattoni. He says of 2012 “a classic vintage which has elegance, a firm structure as well as ageing potential - it seems certain that the increasingly fine wines of Montalcino will be of interest to a growing number of wine lovers”
'September provides the key to better understanding of the very peculiar 2012 vintage. The entire month was warm and windy while nights were cool. This guaranteed a prolonged and slow ripening of the grapes and a delayed picking date that suggested a cool rather than a hot vintage … the bunches that did reach the cellars were of such high quality that I heard more than one producer claiming that 2012 is better than the already legendary 2010'. Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com
James Suckling has awarded the Fuligni Brunello 95 points
The Wine Spectator has been even more enthusiastic about the Collemattoni 2012
'This is very Burgundian in style, with effusive cherry, strawberry and floral aromas and flavors riding a supple texture until the characteristic Sangiovese tannins emerge on the finish. Elegant, complex and long overall. 96 points, Bruce Sanderson, The Wine Spectator
We believe that Collemattoni and Fuligni epitomise all that is great from the region. Fuligni is a grand classic, with perfectly placed vineyards on the northern slopes of the town of Montalcino itself. This cooler northern exposition produces wines of elegance and sophistication which are among the top examples of the appellation every year – 2012 is no exception. Marcello Bucci at Collemattoni, signora Fuligni’s pupil when he was starting up, makes another exceptional wine on the southern slopes of Sant’Angelo in Colli, with a dramatic view of the Val d’Orcia, and his wines gain in energy and class with each vintage. Both come highly recommended.
The Wines
Collemattoni
<p>This is a small, 13-hectare estate, spread across the Southwest and Southeast of Montalcino. The winery (and some of these 13 hectares), sits in San Angelo in Colle on the southern side of the hill of Montalcino, nestling above the famous and rather larger Col d'Orcia vineyards (145 hectares). Winemaker Marcello Bucci is making wonderfully good wines which have rapidly increased both in quality and international recognition.</p> <p>With his new winery now well and truly bedded in Marcello is thriving with the greater control and flexibility he now has - this is an estate going from strength to strength and the wines have a real true imprint of these beautiful rolling hills and Marcello's gentle manner. The wines from these vineyards are fuller and riper perhaps, than Fuligni or Padelletti. However, where there may be less lacy finesse, they more than compensate with indulgent joy, not to mention with their pricing. Collemattoni make some of the best value wines of the region.</p>
2016 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Collemattoni
75cl bottles, case of 6
Lustrous mid ruby. Quite closed on the nose and not conveying a lot. Brooding cherry with a hint of pine. Open-knit cherry fruit palate with grainy tannins. Long and supple, with quite a bit ofLustrous mid ruby. Quite closed on the nose and not conveying a lot. Brooding cherry with a hint of pine. Open-knit cherry fruit palate with grainy tannins. Long and supple, with quite a bit of tannic grip on the finish, but can be approached already. Drinking range: 2027 - 2028 Rating: 16 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com (Mar 2021)
2015 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Vigna Fontelontano Riserva Collemattoni
75cl bottles, case of 6
Dried berry and cherry with flower and walnut undertones. Some stones and dry earth. Full-bodied with a chewy, intense palate, showing wonderful structure and depth. A serious 2015 Brunello. DrinkDried berry and cherry with flower and walnut undertones. Some stones and dry earth. Full-bodied with a chewy, intense palate, showing wonderful structure and depth. A serious 2015 Brunello. Drink after 2023. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 96 James Suckling, The Wine Spectator (Dec 2020)
Fuligni
<p>Our relationship with Roberto goes back to the mid-nineties. We have always loved the wines here, which combine the concentration and elegance of the best of Brunello. They can be drunk more or less from release, and are so perfectly balanced that they age beautifully.</p> <p>Year after year Roberto and his team hit the highest heights of what is possible here. Truly classic Brunello is what they do best So fine, so poised with great tension and yet depth of fruit too - these are wines that make you think, stop you in your tracks and stun you in a way that very few producers can manage, The two current releases are nothing short of mesmerising.</p> <p>Fuligni’s vineyards are some of the highest and coolest in the area, perched on the slopes to the east of Montalcino and this gives them enormous advantage, ensuring a finesse and elegance that others struggle to imitate.</p>
2015 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva Fuligni
75cl bottles, case of 6
Fuligni gives us a truly special expression from this sunny and warm vintage. What I notice first in the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the elegance of the aromas and those dusty, almostFuligni gives us a truly special expression from this sunny and warm vintage. What I notice first in the 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the elegance of the aromas and those dusty, almost salty mineral notes of crushed limestone that frame the delicate fruit packed tight within. There are other distinctive aromas here, such as balsam herb, dried mint and powdered licorice root that add more layers to the bouquet. That layering continues to the palate where the wine excels on all fronts—balanced concentration, structure and freshness. This is a unique creation and a very precious wine. It is one of the stand outs of the year. Drinking range: 2024 - 2050 Rating: 98 Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate (www.robertparker.com) (Dec 2020)
2016 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Fuligni
75cl bottles, case of 6
Healthy mid ruby. Closed, brooding with cherry and cranberry with minerally notes. Iron with a suggestion of orange skin and oak. Embryonic, poised cherry and raspberry palate but with realHealthy mid ruby. Closed, brooding with cherry and cranberry with minerally notes. Iron with a suggestion of orange skin and oak. Embryonic, poised cherry and raspberry palate but with real concentration and with a long vein of acidity running through it. Very long and transparent, with finely-chiselled, long tannins and amazing depth. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 18 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com (Mar 2021)
Padelletti
<p>The Padellettis are one of Montalcino's oldest families, and one with an illustrious past, stretching back into the 13th century at least. In 1529, Giovanni Padelletti, an architect, was given charge of a section of wall and two gates for the defence of the city against the Spanish invaders, and his descendants still own them. Under the Medicis they had to lie low, but by 1576 they are again listed as owning land and vineyards.</p> <p>From this six hectares they select less than a quarter of the grapes for Brunello, so this is a charmingly small production of the utmost quality. Traditional practices are respected with the winemaking, where the wine is fermented in cement tanks and aged in large Slavonian oak casks in their original cellars in central Montalcino, on Via Guido e Dino Padelletti, right under the family's historic house.</p> <br> <div style="border: 1px solid lightgrey; height: 1px; max-width: 50px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"></div> <br> <p><em>‘Padelletti holds the traditional line in the extreme northeast of Montalcino. Their properties are some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the area (between 400-430 meters) and are insulated by surrounding forests. The wines are always pure representations of vintage and place, communicating a throw-back style without ever coming across as rustic.’</em></p> <p><strong>Eric Guido</strong> – Vinous.com </p>
2016 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Padelletti
75cl bottles, case of 6
Sitting just below the town of Montalcino, Padelletti's six hectares are northeast-facing on clay soil rich in sandstone and limestone. The estate offers elegant yet profound wines epitomised by theSitting just below the town of Montalcino, Padelletti's six hectares are northeast-facing on clay soil rich in sandstone and limestone. The estate offers elegant yet profound wines epitomised by the 2016 vintage. It opens gradually with scents of violet, lilac, truffle and liquorice. Midweight and fluid, with finessed but firm tannins and brisk acidity, this finishes long with savoury tea notes. A magnificent reminder that Brunello doesn’t need to be a powerhouse to be ageworthy. (Decanter Platinum) Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 97 Michaela Morris, Decanter (Apr 2021)
2015 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Riserva Padelletti
75cl bottles, case of 6
The 2015 Riserva is true to the vintage, with more concentration and darker fruits, while still maintaining soft floral aromatics and perfume. Its structure is more giving and more supple, with aThe 2015 Riserva is true to the vintage, with more concentration and darker fruits, while still maintaining soft floral aromatics and perfume. Its structure is more giving and more supple, with a long finish of sweet herbs and dark cherry fruit. Though the acidity is less racy than the most recent vintage, It still offers weightless lift and freshness. These are beautiful and nuanced wines that are expressive of the vintage and consistent in their finesse. Enjoy over the next 15 or more years. 2021-2036. Drinking range: 2021 - 2036 Rating: 95 Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com (Mar 2021)
San Polino
<p>Thirty years ago, Luigi Fabbro and Londoner Katia Nussbaum founded San Polino – Montalcino’s first certified organic estate - with 4 (now 5) hectares of vines and 16 of forest, 9km from the town to the south-east on the way to Castelnuovo. They now have another site on the other side, 5 hectares of vines bordering Fuligni and Padelletti. </p><p>Katia, daughter of Romanian-Jewish father and brought up in Putney, had always felt a fish out of water in London, and had met Luigi ('Gigi') from Friuli in Katmandhu in her gap year. Having completed her education at SOAS, she went to join him in Italy. Luigi, a trained chemist and former computer scientist, brought his experiences mapping the biodiversity of the Amazon rainforest to this corner of Tuscany, and the couple aim to 'create wines as complete reflections of the biodiversity of the terroir'.</p> <p>Blessed with an extraordinary range of soil types across their land – from ancient sea beds to volcanic minerals - they are self-proclaimed extremists when it comes to organic farming, using microorganisms in place of sulphur and copper in the vineyard. Their own compost is made from the stalks and skins from the grapes, and grasses and beans are regularly planted to add nutrients to the soil and increase biodiversity. The wines undergo spontaneous fermentation from indigenous yeasts, and see a 45-day maceration on skins, before being pressed and raised in large Slavonian and French oak for three years. 5% of the oak is new, for a hint of spice.</p> <p>The vineyards have been organic since 1994 and are also certified biodynamic. The philosophy of biodynamics, with its emphasis on harmony and balance, plus obsessive care in the winemaking, lends the wines a phenomenal amount of elegance and purity of fruit, with a finish that seems to go on forever.</p>
2016 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Helichrysum San Polino
75cl bottles, case of 6
Exotic, spicy, enticing, sultry; these are just a few of the words that come to mind while taking in the bouquet of the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Helichuyrum. Sour cherries mix with mint, sage,Exotic, spicy, enticing, sultry; these are just a few of the words that come to mind while taking in the bouquet of the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Helichuyrum. Sour cherries mix with mint, sage, cedar dust and white smoke to form a seductive display. It’s velvety in texture with ripe polished fruits that seem to come in waves, each time building more and more tension as minerals and fine tannins slowly saturate. The sheer density here nearly masks its structural heft, which is not to say that this lacks balance; in fact, the 2016 Helichuyrum is in perfect form. Lavender, blackberry and a hint of licorice linger long through the dark and dramatic finale. Drinking range: 2024 - 2036 Rating: 94 Eric Guido, www.vinous.com (Nov 2020)
2016 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO San Polino
75cl bottles, case of 6
The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino shows a mix of woodland berries and herbs before adding further depths of flowery undergrowth and smoky nuance. It’s silky-smooth, complemented by polished red/blackThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino shows a mix of woodland berries and herbs before adding further depths of flowery undergrowth and smoky nuance. It’s silky-smooth, complemented by polished red/black fruits, while savory spices and notes of sour citrus slowly penetrate. Hints of licorice and mint linger, along with a coating of fine tannins on the long and lightly structured finish. The 2016 San Polino should shine bright with only a few years of cellaring. Drinking range: 2024 - 2034 Rating: 92 Eric Guido, www.vinous.com (Nov 2020)