Chalonnais
The Côte Chalonnaise is the continuation of the same escarpment as the Côte de Beaune, just a little way to the south, and consists of the villages of Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.
There are some producers, mainly centred in the Côte de Nuits, whose wine you will simply never see on shop shelves. Their wines are very expensive, but so extremely desirable that they sell out discreetly on release to deep pocketed fans.
This is now happening in the Côte Chalonnaise.
It sounds peculiar, as you would struggle to part with more than £50 for a bottle in this small region, but the reputations of producers like Lumpp, Raquillet and Dureuil-Janthial are so good, and thus so desirable, that they too are entering this realm of ‘on allocation only’.
This, to me, is the region you take the doubters, when you hear them crow about how ‘there is no value in Burgundy anymore’. There is, it’s here, and the 2022s exemplify this.
Jack Chapman, Head of Private Clients
Please note that some of the web pages may take a few moments to load.
Domaine Ninot
Domaine Ninot has 13 hectares split 50/50 between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Rully and Rully 1er Cru in white and red, and 2 hectares of red Mercurey. They have been working organically since 2017, and the first vintage to be certified organic was 2020.
The domaine is run by Erell, who is in charge of the cellar and the commercial side, and her brother Flavien in the vineyard. The family has had roots in the region since the 14th century, and Erell and Flavien's grandfather was one of the leaders of the appellation of Rully when it was established in 1939. However he died when their father Pierre-Marie was only 14, and the domaine, split between five children, had to be sold. Pierre-Marie kept his part of the inheritance, 5 hectares of vines, and began again, gradually adding to the holdings by fermages and purchases. Once Erell had completed her studies in oenology and commerce, and had gained experience by working abroad, he handed over the keys to the cellar.
Erell is delighted to have 2022 in the cellar - a normal size vintage, the first since 2016. There were no real problems at all throughout the season. Really quite a typical modern year. Vintage was warm - with some 'secheresse', but there were also storms and plenty of water so the vines did not suffer. She loves the balance and approachability of the wines - which are almost all hard to resist right away!2023 RULLY ROUGE 1er Cru Marissou Domaine Ninot
This vineyard is across the road from Meix Guillaume, sit up the hill. More spice and savouriness on the nose with a mix of red & dark berry fruits. A touch of reduction adds to that savoury edge.This vineyard is across the road from Meix Guillaume, sit up the hill. More spice and savouriness on the nose with a mix of red & dark berry fruits. A touch of reduction adds to that savoury edge. More weight on the palate with a core of sweet fruit. Slightly grippier tannins but nicely balanced. Again, this could do with a bit more time in bottle to be at its best.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Saumonts Domaine Ninot
Bit of a step up in complexity with the Mercureys. Deeper, richer, spicier notes on the nose. Ripe red fruits with some darker fruits too. A good level of ripeness here but very good acidity too.Bit of a step up in complexity with the Mercureys. Deeper, richer, spicier notes on the nose. Ripe red fruits with some darker fruits too. A good level of ripeness here but very good acidity too. Quite a long finish too. This should turn out to a real winner.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 MERCUREY 1er Cru Les Velleys Domaine Ninot
The most impressive of the reds from Ninot on the day. Straight away you notice how much darker the colour of the wine is. That's obvious too on the nose. A real focus on darker fruits. Some violetThe most impressive of the reds from Ninot on the day. Straight away you notice how much darker the colour of the wine is. That's obvious too on the nose. A real focus on darker fruits. Some violet too. The spiciness of the oak is more pronounced but it's still well integrated and works well with the ripe fruit. It's very well balanced and has a long finish. Very good. L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 RULLY ROUGE Le Meix Guillaume Domaine Ninot
The Meix Guillaume comes across as a touch more refined than the Chaponniere. A nose full of red fruits. Cranberry, strawberry, raspberry. A good level of ripeness on the palate but there's more gripThe Meix Guillaume comes across as a touch more refined than the Chaponniere. A nose full of red fruits. Cranberry, strawberry, raspberry. A good level of ripeness on the palate but there's more grip and acidity. A really mouthwatering finish. Needs a bit of time in bottle to be at its best.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 RULLY ROUGE Chaponnière Domaine Ninot
A good start with the reds. The nose here is full of ripe summer berries and a touch of red plum. Some sweet spice evident too. This continues on the palate with soft, silky tannins and there's goodA good start with the reds. The nose here is full of ripe summer berries and a touch of red plum. Some sweet spice evident too. This continues on the palate with soft, silky tannins and there's good acidity to keep it in check. Nicely done and should be a good to go in a few years.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
In Bond
P & M Jacqueson
The domaine was founded in 1946 by Henri Jacqueson and passed to his son Paul. Marie joined her father in 2006 and since 2015 she and her brother Pierre run the estate, now known simply as P&M Jacqueson. The domaine consists of 18 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also 5 in Mercurey and some in Bouzeron. The team also tend vines owned by their neighbours and make some beautiful wines from other peoples' fruit that they themselves have worked all year.
Traditional methods meticulously applied inspire everything they do: the grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood for the reds, just 20% for the 1er Cru Whites). The domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve.
Domaine Jeannin-Naltet
Benoît and Emilie Eschard moved to Mercurey in 2011 to take over Domaine Jeannin-Naltet. His family had owned and run this estate since 1858, but with his uncle retiring and no heir - they decided to take it on.
Not 'to the manor born' - Benoît left his successful engineering career in Paris to continue this long family history. Studying at the viticultural school in Beaune at the age of 35, before setting about bringing the estate up to date and beginning to maximise the huge potential here. No longer would they sell off their fruit in bulk. Benoit understood what this 9HA contiguous vineyard was capable of. Blessed with nearly 7HA of 1er cru sites including the 4.9HA monopole of Le Clos des Grands Voyens - he wanted to bottle their own wines and thank goodness he did.
His fastidious nature and open minded approach have seen the vineyards transformed. Re-vamping the farming completely with higher trellising, turning the soil and much more hands on work throughout the season ensures the finest fruit possible arrives at the cellar. With fruit now of the highest quality and Benoit has brought in detailed yet gentle processes in the winery, no more pumping and delicate ageing in a broad selection of oak from 7 different coopers - each selected to deal with parcel by parcel differences in the crop. These wines have risen quickly to the top of the Côte Chalonnaise tree. France's most important Wine Guide the 'Revue du Vin de France' - rates 6 domaines here at the highest level. Domaine Jeannin-Naltet becomes the 4th from this top 'set' to join the Lea & Sandeman list alongside the more famous names Francois Lumpp, Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, and Francois Raquillet. We are delighted to add them to our selection. These are sophisticated, precise wines that are full of charm and intrigue.
Domaine François Lumpp
François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by their daughter Anne-Cécile who is running the estate day to day now, assisted by her brother Pierre.
François remains a passionate viticulturalist and the family places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results - often at the expense of yield. The mantra is certainly quality above quantity at this estate which has helped lock it in as an address to note for all lovers of fine Burgundy. It is no surprise that wine critic Tim Atkin MW described François Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' All the Lumpp wines offer great value for money - year after year.
Domaine Raquillet
François took over the running of this estate from his father, Jean, in 1990, with his wife Emmanuelle. Records show that the same family have made wine in Mercurey since the 1600s, and Francois is the eleventh generation. His daughter Jeanne now works alongside François slowly taking over the day to day work of the domaine, her passion is really viticulture - so she loves her work in the vineyards and represents the 12th generation at the helm of this stellar property.
With eleven hectares under vine, François has substantially reduced yields over the years, introduced higher quality oak barrels (up to 50% new wood for the Premiers Crus) and significantly increased the quality of wines made here. He and Jeanne explain that they try to avoid over-extraction at all costs - their one aim is to deliver the beautifully pure fruit profile they get out of the old vines - they do this with great success. It is a wonderfully transparent style - combined with good mid-palate weight.
Thankfully there were smiles all around this year once again and the sad story of the terrible run of vintages here (in terms of yield) has finally paused. 2022 was back to more normal levels at harvest and the superb 2023 has also kept the cellar well filled. These wines are great value across the range.