A tiny part of the wine market as a whole (as explored in Charles Lea’s blog here), grower Champagne has a disproportionate share of characterful, remarkable wines, thanks to the passionate vignerons behind the wines. We’re shining a spotlight on our portfolio of grower champagnes this year, each month highlighting a different producer – this month: Marc Hébrart.
An address in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is a prestigious one to hold in the Champagne region, not only because you are rubbing shoulders with the likes of Philipponat and Billecart-Salmon but the vineyards are also recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Marc Hébrart started making his own Champagne here in 1962, and the domaine is now run by his son Jean-Paul, who took over in 1997. Jean-Paul tries to add to the family holdings every year, certain that investing in the region is a good long term bet.
His vineyards are farmed sustainably, with as little input as possible. He currently holds 80 different parcels in 11 villages throughout Champagne – vinification is by parcel to give the widest possible palette when it comes to blending.
The Noces de Craie is their 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs cuvée. It comes from across five Grand Cru plots with an average age of 44 years. The name translates as ‘marriage of chalks’ and the beautiful, chalky minerality underpins the palate here. Intense, aromatic and rich it has flavour and heft enough for wintery weather and a wide range of food-pairing opportunities.
2018 NOCES DE CRAIE Extra Brut Grand Cru Champagne Marc Hébrart
France, Champagne
Pinot Noir | 12.5%
“The 2018 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Noces de Craie is a powerful, vibrant Champagne that lives up to its name. Layers of deep, resonant Pinot fruit wrap around the palate, all framed by incisive veins of chalk that give the wine its shape and overall structure. There’s tremendous weight and substance here, both commendable for a year in which so many Champagnes are on the lighter side. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged October 10, 2022.”
Drinking range: 2023 – 2036
17.5 | Tamlyn Currin – JancisRobinson.com
£68.50 single bottle
£62.50 in a full or mixed case of 6
