It is still day three of this trip as the Northern Rhône disappears in the rear view mirror. After a hasty dash down the motorway we head off west to Pont Saint Esprit and the little village of Saint Nazaire in the Gard. The landscape opens out and the feel and the scents are much more Mediterranean, even if this particular corner has higher rainfall and a lusher, greener look than much of the southern Rhône.
Our final call of day three is with a new addition to the L&S Rhône family, with Simon Tyrrell of Les Deux Cols. Simon was a former wine merchant in Dublin who sold up and chased his winemaking dream in the Rhône, the results of which are looking really lovely. Simon was taught history by a certain Patrick Sandeman so is really pleased that we have finally got him on board. The winds of change are blowing in the south and as if to make the point, a mighty mistral greeted our arrival.
You may have heard this already, but some are saying the future could be white in the south. The region is struggling more than most with the unbearably hot summers that produce high alcohol reds, but those in the know see the white wines of the south being key to the future. Simon’s whites at Les deux Cols are just beautifully balanced and fresh, the reds bright, pure and extremely drinkable, the labels also appeal to my love of all things floral.
Day 4
Domaine de la Mordorée
It’s always a delight to taste with the lovely Delorme family at Mordorée, one of the leading estates in the south. Ambre and her mother have taken the wines to another level over the past few years. Nothing quite like a range of boldly brooding spicy Châteauneuf-du-Papes at nine in the morning, it gets the palate thinking. The estate has been organic and biodynamic for some time now and the wines are engaging and energetic. Fresh bright whites, deeply flavoured Tavel rosé and majestic reds across Lirac and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There is nothing to disappoint here, as ever one of the most reliable domaines and a source of brilliant reds that will age nicely.
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
With their vineyard all in the most northerly sector of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Daumen family have for some time now been one of the most under the radar estates to the general public, but to critics, journalists and Rhône aficionados they are a by-word for quality, restraint and regal wines of elegance and purity rarely seen in this part of the world. Antoine and his father Jean-Paul have made some of the best wines I tasted on this trip, and I would urge people to taste. The two ‘Lieu Dit Clavin’ wines rise above their ‘Côtes du Rhône’ status and would challenge many top Châteauneuf-du-Pape. North facing vineyards, sandy soils, old vine Grenache, some coming in around 100-130 years old, all play a part in making this one of the most compelling domaines in the southern Rhône.
Domaine Cristia
A quick dash into Courthézon where Cristia are based, everything tasted from barrel to gain an impression of the 2023’s. The harvest is still in full swing here and the heady smell of fermenting vats is filling the air as workers bring in the fruit from the vineyards. Cristia have some lovely vineyards spread across the region and make great fruit forward wines, generous and always great value for money. I was particularly impressed with the quality here in 2023. I’ve always been a fan of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape and wonder every year when people will come around to this gloriously textured style of wine. The reds as always on song too.
After a quick lunch in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, we head north to the picturesque village of Gigondas, for my money the most appealing of all the pretty hillside villages, it nestles just below the Dentelles de Montmirail. Here we have two of the top domaines in Gigondas, that being Domaine Santa Duc and Domaine de la Bouïssière.
Domaine Santa Duc
As I pull into the estate, a row of workers are busy plucking big ripe bunches of dark red/blue grapes into small baskets, while a small tractor rumbles behind collecting the crop. In the cellars Benjamin and his father Yves are busy at the sourcing table, plucking out any unwanted fruit from the 2024 harvest. I suspect Benjamin is relieved to be distracted by our arrival and away from the sticky manual work. I find my visits here over the years to be a real treat, I always leave with a sense that everything will be ok in the south, that there is a way forward, away from the heat and high alcohol. No estate demonstrates a forward-thinking philosophy quite like that of Santa Duc. The cellars here are full of large foudres and clay amphoras, the later makes up 15% of all the estates blends and you can really feel that ripe freshness they bring to the wines. The Gras family really know how to get the best from their terroir, know what works in the vineyard and how to translate it to bottles. The wines are very hard to beat for elegance, purity and brightness.
Domaine de la Bouïssière
Thierry Faravel is a deep thinker; he knows his history and he knows Gigondas as well as any vigneron in the area. To taste with him from his cramped cellars tucked away to the side of the village is always intriguing. Ever the perfectionist you can almost feel him trying to work out what he could have done better to improve the wine he is showing you. He shouldn’t worry so much, the wines here are always very classy and very correct and classic. Old Grenache and Syrah from high up in the Dentelles provides freshness and brightness that perhaps those on the flat plains below don’t have. If it is expressive characterful wines that fill you with joy then look no further, Thierry is your man.
An evening of cheese and charcuterie with a selection of wines gathered throughout the week brings a close to a busy day of tasting.
Day 5
The week draws to a close and the final two visits before heading home, and I feel that this is the perfect finish with two of my favourite estates in the south. First up Domaine Elodie Balme followed by Domaine des Escaravailles, covering the villages of Rasteau, Cairanne and Roaix.
Domaine Elodie Balme
This is our third vintage of working with Elodie, and I am always happy to taste at the cellar door, bright, charming and engaging, she brings a fresh outlook to a region dominated by richness and extraction. The wines here are exuberant, fruit forward and simply put, delicious. There is very little oak here, a few old barrels maybe to add a little something but everting else is raised in concrete and stainless steel. Elodie gently infuses the cap during fermentation, this I believe leads to the wonderful ripe fresh fruited wines we see. The Roaix here is always one of my picks, it has a little touch of spice that gives it a little more interest over the Rasteau. The wines here are for now, you can safely tuck into these with in a year or two of vintage.
Domaine des Escaravailles
The last port of call for the Rhône tour and one of my all time favourite estates. This is one of the most beautifully positioned domaines, high up in hills above Rasteau you get a commanding view of the vineyards looking south, it is very peaceful and tranquil, I feel I could retire here. Father and daughter, Gilles and Madeline work hand in hand, an older generation passing on the reigns to the younger generation, the future is in good hands. Together they have some great vineyards that produce sublime Grenache and Syrah, the estate seems to be moving toward a lighter touch, the wines in 2023 are just easy, easy to drink and savour. I really enjoyed the whites, but the reds are the stars here in 2023, from the Côtes du Rhône to the Rasteau Les Coteaux they are bright, juicy and on the march, but my money will be on the Boutine, it just kept on giving.
In summary the 2023 is a vintage that will put a smile on your face, the whites are drinking now, full of fresh floral brightness. The reds are compelling, the North maybe edging the south for a more serious expression, but ask me another day and perhaps the south wins on wines of joy. I can safely say though, up and down the mighty Rhône river, there are happy winemakers and rightly so.
