Mâconnais
‘Burgundy pilgrims pelting up the Côte d’Or, impatient to take that selfie next to Romanée-Conti, are oblivious to one of France’s most picturesque wine regions, a cradle of top-notch Chardonnay that is translating its terroirs with increasing clarity and conviction.’
Neal Martin2023 in the Mâconnais mimicked most of the patterns of the Côte d’Or, with a few key differences. One was the hydric stress the vines were put under by a general lack of rainfall, a condition which meant some of the grapes struggled to ripen. This was largely assuaged by old vines, if you’re lucky enough to have them, as well as some sporadic showers through June, July and August (indeed they had double the rainfall of the Côte d’Or during the former, so mildew was something that needed to be closely watched).
Coupled with generally cooler days and cooler nights, it wasn’t necessary to start harvest until mid-September for most, and the wines have retained a fantastic freshness.
Lovers of restraint and verticality will find so much joy with Frantz Chagnoleau’s wines, who takes inspiration from Chablis when making his lithe, fresh Mâcon wines. If your preference is for intensity and power, Barraud is undoubtedly making some of the finest, most age worthy wines in the region.
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Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Frantz Chagnoleau and his wife Caroline Gon, who was until 2022 also the winemaker at the Comte Lafon Mâcon operation, are rising stars of the Mâconnais. Together they have a small domaine consisting of 3.5 hectares of Mâcon in a single block in Saint Albain, and several small plots in Viré Clessé, Saint Véran and Pouilly Fuissé, making up 6.8 hectares in total. All the vineyards are organically farmed (Ecocert certified).
Great care is taken at harvest to pick at the optimum moment for sugars, acidity and aromatic precursors, and they will stop the picking between parcels if they think that the ripening is not even across the whole domaine. Grapes are manually picked into 25kg cases, so as to get whole, undamaged grapes to the winery. After careful pressing, a very non-interventionist vinification takes place with natural yeasts in oak foudres.
The wines are kept on the lees to preserve freshness until the beginning of summer, when they are racked and lightly filtered, before bottling before the next harvest, except for some of the top wines which are aged for another six months in tank in order to develop fully. The wines are in a style which is bright and incisive, expressive and pure - and well worth seeking out.
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN Prélude Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
The Prélude comes from 4 complementary parcels, all quite early ripening, Frantz picks when just ripe, Half is raised in inox and half in old Demi-Muids. This élevage works well in hotter vintages toThe Prélude comes from 4 complementary parcels, all quite early ripening, Frantz picks when just ripe, Half is raised in inox and half in old Demi-Muids. This élevage works well in hotter vintages to retain freshness. Chalky soil, warm site. Bottled in August. Lean, clear and pure - and then that extra dimension of charm and softness to the fruit character. A broad charmer for this cellar - but still so sophisticated.L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN La Fournaise Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
Of all their sites, the Fournaise parcel, right under the cliff face has the whitest soil and (along with the Monchenins) give Frantz his purest, brightest fruit. Which allows him to pursue hisOf all their sites, the Fournaise parcel, right under the cliff face has the whitest soil and (along with the Monchenins) give Frantz his purest, brightest fruit. Which allows him to pursue his 'Chablis-Spirit' here in the Maconnaise. This is very tight still, hard to read. But you can sense there is more energy here than the Monchenins a pure bolt of electricity, jolts right through the heart of this. The vines are now 50 years old, planted in 1973. 'Allow this 2-3 years and this will be awesome' says Frantz. It is easy to understand his enthusiasm - a really sophisticated and pure style for this part of the world. Frantz uses no New Oak for this wine, for Frantz - the white soils here do not take it well. Instead this is raised in old Demi Muids. L&S (Jan 2025)
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2023 VIRÉ-CLESSÉ Les Raspillères Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
This was their ripest, warmest plot this year. In contrast to some years and to other wines in the cellar, the Viré Clessé is more exotic, more rich than usual. Frantz ruefully explains that CarolineThis was their ripest, warmest plot this year. In contrast to some years and to other wines in the cellar, the Viré Clessé is more exotic, more rich than usual. Frantz ruefully explains that Caroline said they should pick it rapidly, as it was ripening so quickly.. but he waited a moment and feels he might have been happier and more able to achieve his trademark cooler, leaner style if he had not waited. However, everything is relative and in this cellar even the ripest wine is still measured and joyful. The 2023 does have some lovely tropical notes. The core is intense with Mango and pineapple. And yet it comes together beautifully and finishes fresh and super mineral. An amazing combination. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN à la Côte Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
This is raised in 1 new barrel - and the rest in Demi Muids. So just a small percentage is new. The vines sit at more than 400m Frantz's highest site - facing south - potentially warm, but alwaysThis is raised in 1 new barrel - and the rest in Demi Muids. So just a small percentage is new. The vines sit at more than 400m Frantz's highest site - facing south - potentially warm, but always cooler because of that great altitude. Much redder soil gives a much rounder feel compared to Frantz's other wines. In fact the result is much more Pouilly in Style. There is lovely bright fruit at the core - and then this opens getting broader and more indulgent and charming. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN La Roche Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
70 year old vines at 200m in Chasselas, on marl, in mid-slope. This is raised all in barrels now, about 10% of which are new (he buys 1 new one each year). This is much more elegant and complete than70 year old vines at 200m in Chasselas, on marl, in mid-slope. This is raised all in barrels now, about 10% of which are new (he buys 1 new one each year). This is much more elegant and complete than the 'A la Cote' tasted just before. Really impressive and together already. Good weight - but its sleek and concentrated - no big shoulders - just great flow and power. right to a long, complete finish with a brilliant salty tang at the finale. Impressive.L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ Madrigal Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau
For the Madrigal, Frantz and Caroline choose their best barrels each year and keep only those - this year there are 5 that make the cut. For now this is less expressive than the Pastoral - but just aFor the Madrigal, Frantz and Caroline choose their best barrels each year and keep only those - this year there are 5 that make the cut. For now this is less expressive than the Pastoral - but just a tad tighter and seriously concentrated. This is tight now - not easy to taste too precisely. Tightly furled and a tad reductive. Deliberately so - as this is a wine destined for keeping. A baby now - but full of real promise. Classical Chagnoleau mould of linear core and powerful fresh energy, bright aromatics with notes of lemon and firm peach. Yet there is a feel of the vintage here too - and the 2023 is perhaps less Chablis in character than Frantz would really like! One for the cellar - it will be fascinating to see this in about 5 years time. L&S (Nov 2024)
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Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ Alliance-Vergisson Domaine Barraud
The 'Alliance' here is the coming together of 5 parcels: One in Fuissé (below Perrières) - the rest all around Vergisson. All the vines range between 50 - 70 years old. One of the parcels is on clayThe 'Alliance' here is the coming together of 5 parcels: One in Fuissé (below Perrières) - the rest all around Vergisson. All the vines range between 50 - 70 years old. One of the parcels is on clay - 4 on limestone rock. Beautifully concentrated - there is superb depth. Gentle toastiness. Good, tightly furled fruit core with firm citrus flesh some pear and some firm peach. Quite a big boy for now. Nicely complex and lots to get your teeth in to. Lively mineral clean finish.L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 MÂCON CHAINTRÉ Pierres Polies Domaine Barraud
Rich, with honey and ripe melon. Great weight and depth. A convincing line of of exotic white fruit flesh steals the show - but this remains lithe and nicely textured.Rich, with honey and ripe melon. Great weight and depth. A convincing line of of exotic white fruit flesh steals the show - but this remains lithe and nicely textured.L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 MÂCON VERGISSON La Roche Domaine Barraud
Again, this is quite explosive at the start with great weight - then the freshness builds and this really begins to soar with more energy than the Chaintré. This parcel is the same altitude andAgain, this is quite explosive at the start with great weight - then the freshness builds and this really begins to soar with more energy than the Chaintré. This parcel is the same altitude and exposition as Pouilly-Fuissé La Roche - but there is much more limestone here. Just 50 cm of soil then hard rock. This gives the fresh energy to this great value wine. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN En Crèches Domaine Barraud
In 2023 the En Creches has good weight and flow. Quite burly this year. Intense and good spread across the palate. Warm citrus and white peach - but not too tropical and lovely fresh lines too.In 2023 the En Creches has good weight and flow. Quite burly this year. Intense and good spread across the palate. Warm citrus and white peach - but not too tropical and lovely fresh lines too. Perhaps not as zippy as some years but to no detriment to the joy it brings. 1/3 aged in demi-muids, 1/3 in steel tank and 1/3 barrel (10% new). L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 SAINT VÉRAN Les Pommards Domaine Barraud
Les Pommards comes from a site that borders the Pouilly Fuissé vineyard 'Le Pommard'. Julien makes us taste this after the Pouilly Châtaigniers and you see why, as this has good density and power.Les Pommards comes from a site that borders the Pouilly Fuissé vineyard 'Le Pommard'. Julien makes us taste this after the Pouilly Châtaigniers and you see why, as this has good density and power. More heft. Lovely complexity. Deep and rich fruit - but good impact - will need a moment to come together perhaps - but well stacked with all the vital ingredients.L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ Les Châtaigniers Domaine Barraud
Les Châtaigniers is the highest plot here, right on the limit of the Pouilly appellation. The Barraud parcel is now 65 years old. On the nose this is a touch herbal, that lifted aroma of freshly cutLes Châtaigniers is the highest plot here, right on the limit of the Pouilly appellation. The Barraud parcel is now 65 years old. On the nose this is a touch herbal, that lifted aroma of freshly cut mint - then firm pineapple bounce kicks in. Follows to the delicious juicy palate. Persistent, mineral fresh drive. Great zippy smashed citrus fruit. Nicely concentrated and finishes with a saline tang - clean as a whistle and very smart indeed. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ 1er Cru La Maréchaude Clos La Verchère Domaine Daniel Barraud
Fresh clean and long. Not shouty but pretty and complex. The Clos La Verchère plot within the 1er Cru La Maréchaude vineyard is the field right in front of the family house. Lovely. Broad and bright.Fresh clean and long. Not shouty but pretty and complex. The Clos La Verchère plot within the 1er Cru La Maréchaude vineyard is the field right in front of the family house. Lovely. Broad and bright. Really charming and expansive texture. Fresh clean and long. Not shouty but pretty and complex. This wears its newly won 1er Cru status with ease and class. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ 1er Cru Sur la Roche Domaine Barraud
Lively and peppy juice. Good tight green-hued citrus notes rule the mid-palate. Lovely energy, but there is the tell-tale soft edge and gentle caress of the 2023 season. Just makes this so easy toLively and peppy juice. Good tight green-hued citrus notes rule the mid-palate. Lovely energy, but there is the tell-tale soft edge and gentle caress of the 2023 season. Just makes this so easy to like and a joy to taste. Sur La Roche is a fascinating story, a community project for the generations. The vineyard is wholly owned by the village - and all the vignerons rent from the village. But you can only get access to a plot if you inherit from your parents or if there are no heirs it is passed to younger vignerons from the community. You must be local and below forty to gain entry and be allowed to rent it. Julien got a slice in 2020 - but he's now too old to be able to put his hand up for more, should it become available! L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ 1er Cru Les Crays Vieilles Vignes Domaine Daniel Barraud
1er Cru Les Crays is up behind the house - and runs right up to the sheer cliff face of the Roche de Vergisson. All on rock. More linear power here. Chalky - scrubbed stones and lovely delicate1er Cru Les Crays is up behind the house - and runs right up to the sheer cliff face of the Roche de Vergisson. All on rock. More linear power here. Chalky - scrubbed stones and lovely delicate florals - pretty yellow fruits emerge with lemon and yellow plum. Finishes nicely clean and brightly long. Real winner.. L&S (Nov 2024)
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2023 POUILLY FUISSÉ Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Barraud
This beautiful vineyard is more than 65 years old and is across the valley from the Barraud house facing northeast. It would almost certainly be a 1er Cru if only it faced south instead as theThis beautiful vineyard is more than 65 years old and is across the valley from the Barraud house facing northeast. It would almost certainly be a 1er Cru if only it faced south instead as the quality is remarkable year on year. Julien makes us taste this last - as it is so special with real power and breadth. Serious and focused but with huge charm. This will benefit form several years in the cellar to get the most from it.L&S (Nov 2024)
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