LEGRAS
1996 Cuvée Saint Vincent Brut Grand Cru Chouilly
Grapes | Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Champagne |
Village | Chouilly |
Classification | Grand Cru |
ABV | 12% |
The Legras 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs Saint-Vincent smells pungently of buckwheat, toasted hickory, sourdough yeasts and Normandy pear and apple ciders. A sappy, subtly creamy yet incisive and vibrant palate impression gains invigoration thanks to tart fruit skin and piquant fruit pip inflections as well as a squeeze of lemon. A mere four grams of residual sugar is more than enough to assist in pulling-together the fresh-fruited and maturely yeasty elements of this dynamically complex bottling that should merit following for several more years, or from subsequent disgorgements if such there be. Rating: 92 David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2014)
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Champagne R&L Legras
The Legras family has a history in Chouilly that goes back to the sixteenth century, and the association with viticulture can be traced back Honoré Legras who bought vines there in 1808. In the 1950s his descendants, brothers René and Lucien, set up as a récoltant-manipulant and in 1972 changed to negociant-manipulant since they were buying grapes to supplement what they grew on their on five hectares. Gérard Barbier, an employee of the brothers, took over and ran the house for over thirty years, eventually handing over to his son Julien.
Legras make Chardonnays from the Grand Cru classified village of Chouilly at the beginning of Côte des Blancs (except the rosé, coloured by red wine they source in Ambonnay). Well known and highly-respected in France it is used by many top-flight restaurants as 'house' champagne, including the Tour d'Argent and Guy Savoy. The house style exalts the softer and creamy style of Chouilly Chardonnay which is so often more approachable than the firmer wines of the other Côte des Blancs villages.
L&S's association with R & L Legras goes a long way back - as it was the house Champagne of Steven Spurrier's shop 'Les Caves de La Madeleine' in Paris when Charles Lea worked there. Since the original L&S shop was on the site of the London 'Caves de la Madeleine', Legras Champagne was already known in the neighbourhood and it seemed sensible to go on offering it - and it has been on the list ever since.
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