COATES & SEELY LA PERFIDE

The 2009 La Perfide Blanc de Blancs is a sparkling wine that I have tasted two or three times previously, but now it seems to be drinking better than ever. From chalky Hampshire soils and with five years sur latte, it has a fragrant bouquet of white peach, honeysuckle and citrus aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced, and while I do not wish to make comparisons, this is one English sparkling wine that is very Champagne-like in style. Displaying perfect acidity and fleeting glimpses of peach and passion fruit, it retains outstanding tension from start to finish. This Perfide is just beginning to show what it is capable of. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jul 2020)

The 2009 La Perfide Blanc de Blancs was sent to me by Christian Seely when he was visiting his vineyard Hampshire. "It is 100% Chardonnay," he told me, "and grown on chalk with five years sur latte. Obviously I chose the name in reference to the traditional French idea of us as Albion La Perfide." Displaying greenish tints in the glass, it offers vibrant scents of dew-speckled Granny Smith apples that a quite Zen-like in style, what they might lack in complexity compensated by intensity. The palate has an intense, green apple opening that segues into a citric middle. It is a well-crafted Blanc de Blancs for sure that some might find a little shrill on its own, although splash this with some fresh oysters and it will sing. This comes highly recommended. Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2017)

Very full and harmonious palate with vibrant citrus fruit and a lifted, elegant yeasty note on the finish. The wine is beautifully balanced and open, with excellent concentration. A bold, powerful example that is maturing nicely. Drinking range: 2016 - 2020 Rating: 92 Decanter Magazine (Jul 2016)