LA RIOJA ALTA

Lovely dried red fruit, such as plums with just a hint of prunes. Cedar, walnut and leather undertones. Full-bodied with lots of fruit, considering its age, as well as hints of smoke, tobacco, bark and black tea. Some balsamic at the finish. Traditionally styled with lovely results. Drink or hold. Rating: 96 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Nov 2020)

The 2011 Rioja Gran Reserva 904 has been one of my go-to cuvées since my earliest days as a wine lover. This latest release is a blend of 60-year-old Tempranillo from Briñas, Rodenzo and Villalba (89%) and the remainder Graciano from the Montecillo vineyard. Fully de-stemmed and aged for 54 months in American oak, it was bottled in November 2016. This is more reticent and less forthcoming on the nose compared to the Viña Ardanza, gradually unfolding to reveal enticing scents of raspberry, crushed strawberry, warm leather, terra cotta and a touch of meat juice. This needed more decanting than the Ardanza. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-grained tannins, and ultra-smooth in terms of texture. Layers of red fruit laced with clove, sprigs of fresh mint and blood orange dovetail into a soy-tinged finish that you expect to fan out, though it declines; it needs maybe another 12–18 months to really show what it is capable of. Magnificent. Drinking range: 2022 - 2040 Rating: 94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Sept 2020)

La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 2011 is a blend of 89% Tempranillo hailing from old vines in Briñas, Rodezno and Villalba, and 11% Graciano from the estate’s Montecillo vineyard in Fuenmayor. According to chief winemaker, Julio Sáenz, the wine boasts aromas of plum, blackberry jam, raspberry, balsamic, tobacco leaf, liquorice and ground coffee. The 2011 vintage is that last to be classified as “excellent” by the Rioja Consejo Regulador, along with 2010, 2005, 2004 and 2001. Only 14 vintages since 1925 have been ranked as excellent in Rioja, making them particularly appealing to fine wine collectors. The end of the 2011 growing cycle was marked by sunny days and cool nights, leading to even ripening and grapes filled with colour and concentration. The resulting wines have long lives ahead of them. 904 is one of the trio of gran reservas made by La Rioja Alta, the other two being 890 and Viña Arana, which launched last year. The estate was founded in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación (station quarter) in 1895 by five enterprising families in Rioja Alta. Made in the traditional style, the wines are known for their bright fruit and long oak ageing. The bodega imports American oak and dries it for two years before building its barrels by hand in Haro. The wines are racked by candlelight every six months.The Drinks Business (Mar 2020)