MÂCON VERGISSON
2012 La Roche Domaine Daniel Barraud
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
Village | Mâcon Vergisson |
ABV | 13% |
Vineyard | La Roche |
A true gold. harmonious floral and white fruit nose. Taut and fresh despite considerable volume. Lovely. Needs a year to develop, but will it get it? 'Concentrated', says Daniel. L&S (Jan 2014)
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The 2012 Mâcon Vergisson la Roche comes from vines planted by Daniel Barraud in 1982, and was mostly fermented in oak barrels. It has a fragrant bouquet with hints of shaved almond and chalk dust that is tighter than the Mâcon-Fuisse. The palate is crisp and taut with fresh acidity, plenty of green lime and a slice of ginger toward the spicy, tense finish. Excellent. Drinking range: 2014 - 2019 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2014)
Rating: 90 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
(this vineyard abuts the Pouilly-Fuissé vineyard of La Roche below). Here too there are residual fermentation aromas. By contrast there is good freshness and tension to the lemony middle weight flavors that possess just a hint of wood on the mineral-inflected and racy finish. Lovely for its level. 2016+ Rating: 87-90 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2013)
Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
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