CHÂTEAU CALON SÉGUR

The swanky new cellar at Calon doesn’t seem to have affected the quality of the wine, thank goodness, because this remains the most graceful and nuanced of St Estèphes. It’s comparatively light, with chiselled acidity, filigree tannins and gentle red fruits sweetness. 2018-28 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (May 2014)

(92% cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, 6% merlot and 2% petit verdot): Good full ruby. Bright raspberry, blackberry, minerals, espresso and a whiff of violet on the nose. Fine-grained and fresh in the mouth, with a floral quality adding lift to the dark fruit, flint and cocoa flavors. I had this wine on two different occasions with vastly different results: one sample was dense and horizontal, with very attractive floral fruit, while the other was thin and vegetal. As the former description is more in sync with what Calon Segur usually comes up, I'll give that description here. The combined 92% for the cabernets refers to the fact that Vincent Millet, Calon Segur's very talented winemaker and technical director, said he can't be sure just how much franc there is planted among the cabernets as the old vines were often haphazardly co-planted. Rating: 88-91 Ian d'Agata, www.vinousmedia.com (May 2014)

(92 Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 Merlot, 2 Petit Verdot) Nice power, discreet, reserved and tender, too. The oak has been completely absorbed by the wine and the result is a very elegant, pristine Cabernet. It is reminiscent of an old-fashioned Calon but with the brightest, slimmest Cabernet fruit imaginable. There is a crisp, tangy finish but no dry tannins and the fruit theme is plum-soaked and not too dark. Production is down 20% and the selection to make a wine of this calibre was very severe. Apparently the price will be ‘decreased to show goodwill’ – let’s see how far! Rating: 17.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Apr 2014)

Wonderful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), cassis, slightly smoky, all elegance from St-Estèphe, a finely polished wine. Drink: 2018-2030. Rating: 17.75 Steven Spurrier (Apr 2014)

This has freshness and cut, with lively bay and savory notes leading the way for a mix of red and black currant fruit. Iron-tinged minerality lines the finish, featuring judicious, integrated toast. A very solid effort. Rating: 89–92 James Molesworth, The Wine Spectator (Apr 2014)

This is fresh and spicy with currant and berry character. Medium to full body with hazelnut, currant and hints of cloves. Rating: 89-90 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2014)

The Calon Segur 2013 is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot delivering 13.1% alcohol raised for 20 months (eventually) entirely new oak. There was a little chaptalization with respect to the Cabernet Sauvignon. It actually included 19% vin de presse, which was included in this sample. The wood comes through quite strongly on the aromatics at first and at the moment it seems to dominate the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco infused black fruit. This is balanced with well-judged acidity, a little softer towards the finish than previous recent vintages. It is a pleasant Calon-Segur but it needs to develop more personality, but it is a successful wine considering the growing season. Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Calon Ségur is refined and polished to the core. Sweet tobacco, graphite, crushed rocks and dark fruit all meld together in the glass. A wine of notable grace and elegance, the 2013 is all about finesse. A pure crystalline finish rounds things out in style. This is a promising showing. Rating: 90-92+ Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Apr 2014)