CHÂTEAU PONTET CANET

2014 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac

Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
Sub-district Haut Médoc
Village Pauillac
Classification 5ème Cru Classé
ABV 14%

There is a lovely attack here, quite grippy with dark berries a touch of tar and cooked fruit. Spiced baked plums. It is a big boy, chiselled - burly and yet attractive. A modern day second Row. There are some more animal, savoury elements and then tobacco leaf and green herbs season the dark cherry-flesh core. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Rating: 93 L&S (Apr 2015)


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A clear step upwards from both the 2012 and 2013 in terms of Pauillac definition and punch, and it is following the usual trajectory of a wine from this corner of Bordeaux - meaning that it is still young at 7 years old, and needs another few years in bottle. Packed full of bilberry and cassis fruits, a deliciously cool and savoury style of Cabernet with crushed mint and blue fruits, concentrated and finessed. Plenty of juice on the finish also, I just love the progress of this wine through the palate, as it travels slowly but surely towards its destination. First year certified as Demeter (Biodyvin as of 2010, so this is a second biodynamic certification). Harvest Septeber 29 to October 10. Drinking range: 2021 - 2042 Rating: 95 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Oct 2021)

The 2014 Pontet Canet is a controversial showing, dividing the participants who unanimously nailed its identity. It has an opulent but well defined bouquet with black cherries, red plum, raspberry coulis and cedar aromas. Perhaps this is a little exotic for a Pauillac? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, plenty of dark berry fruit laced with cedar and black tea, leading to a lightly spiced finish that is just missing some finesse and precision. This is undoubtedly an enjoyable Bordeaux but I have to be parsimonious with my score because although I hope that this wine would steer itself towards the stylistic traits of Pauillac, this blind showing suggests that it is veering somewhere else. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. Drinking range: 2020 - 2040 Rating: 92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2018)

Light but well-integrated nose. Edgy tannins on the end. Long way from being ready to drink but the ingredients are there for a savoury, chunky Pauillac. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 16.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Feb 2018)

Château Pontet Canet

Pauillac Cinquième cru 1855 Such is the speed with which Pontet-Canet's star has risen of recent that it could almost feel as if it's a new estate bursting on to the scene. But it has a long history, in keeping with its noble neighbours, but a long history of under-achievement, a moniker it has only just shaken off. During the 18th Century, Jean-François de Pontet, and his descendants, built up a very healthy portfolio of vineyard in the Médoc. Those that they owned in St Julien were, eventually, disposed of but the large estate that they assembled in Pauillac was retained and has resisted the fragmentation that afflicted so many Médoc estates over the years. Consequently, at 80ha of vines in a 120ha estate, Pontet-Canet is one of the largest Cru Classé estates. By the time of the 1855 classification, despite being the neighbour of Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite, Pontet-Canet could "only" scrape 5th Growth status. Herman Cruse bought the run down estate in 1865 and, initially, put in the neccessary investment to realise the vineyard's potential. But, by the mid-20th Century, Pontet-Canet's production was mediocre at best. Salvation came when the Cruse family, beset with scandal, were forced to sell Pontet-Canet to a Cognac shipper Guy Tesseron in 1975. He, with his son Alfred, have, at last, allowed Pontet-Canet to blossom. It has taken a lot of work, a lot of investment, and a lot of time to perform the miracle but, since the mid-1990's, Pontet-Canet has produced wines of immense quality and longevity, much loved by Robert Parker and far exceeding 5th Growth status. Lying on a wide plateau of poor gravel soils, with Mouton Rothschild and d'Armailhac immediately to the north and the Carruades de Lafite vineyard to the west, Pontet-Canet is planted to 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, the first classed growth vineyard in the Médoc to do so. In keeping with that, they have eschewed tractors in favour of horses, who's hooves are kinder to the soil than tractor tyres. The Grand Vin spends 16 to 20 months in wood, of which 60% typically is new. There is a second wine - Les Hauts de Pontet Canet.

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