MEURSAULT
2014 Narvaux Domaine Rémi Jobard
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| Other | Bio-dynamic |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Meursault |
| ABV | 13% |
| Vineyard | Narvaux |
55 year old vines, above Genevrières. A fuller nose than Luraule, more breadth of minerals, a flavour of rock-dust and a big nutty sort of flavour. Not as sleek as the Luraule, but more obvious character at this stage. Big finish. Drinking range: 2018 - L&S (Nov 2015)
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Pale color. Aromas of crystallized lemon peel and peach show a candied aspect in a positive, fresh way. Juicy, elegant and gripping, showing the thickness of the vintage's better examples but also solid balancing acidity. Its flavors of citrus fruits and acacia flower are enlivened by underlying minerality. Finishes generous, dry and long. Incidentally, Jobard told me that his 2014s finished drier than his 2015s. Drinking range: 2018 - 2025 Rating: 91 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2016)
Solid and quite smoky on the nose. Just a little more backward than the Luraule. But a good effort even if just a tad stodgy. Drinking range: 2017 - 2022 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2016)
The 2014 Meursault Narvaux comes from the lieu-dit of "Les Narvaux-Dessous" from vines planted 55 years ago. The nose displays fine mineralité with light granite scents infusing the citrus fruit and tinned apricot. This is tightly wound at the moment and will need three or four years to open. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious opening, hints of almond and spice informing the entry, sedate almost yet with fine tension on the finish. This is one of the domaine's best offerings in 2014 and should reward several years in bottle. Drinking range: 2017 - 2028 Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2015)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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