2014 SAINT AUBIN 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy

Grapes	Chardonnay	Colour	White
Origin	France, Burgundy	District	Côte d'Or
Sub-district	Côte de Beaune	Village	Saint Aubin
Classification	1er Cru	ABV	13%
Vineyard	Clos de la Chatenière

Grapes	Chardonnay
Colour	White
Origin	France, Burgundy
District	Côte d'Or
Sub-district	Côte de Beaune
Village	Saint Aubin
Classification	1er Cru
ABV	13%
Vineyard	Clos de la Chatenière

As ever there's a sunny aspect to this from its exposition, as well as good volume and tension from the mineral soil. Intense. Fine mineral and directed palate from start to long finish. Drinking range: 2017 - L&S (Nov 2015)

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From magnum. Fresh pale lemon colour. Superb energy on the nose, a pure classy chiselled immaculate wine, with fabulous length. This keeps growing in the glass and, at least in this format, should age well for quite a while yet. Drink from 2025-2033. Tasted: June 2024. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033 Rating: ***** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jun 2024)

Olivier Lamy is one of the most thoughtful Burgundian winemakers, always experimenting. He replanted some plots at very high density, resulting in particularly intense flavours. 2014 was perfect for whites (not too hot or dry cf 2022) and it was a treat to have a 10-year-old white in our tasting. However, because of Olivier’s winemaking, it actually tastes extremely young.

Pale straw. Great charge of energy on the nose of this wine which is of course six years older than the Chablis 2020. Liquorice and lemon peel on the nose. Massive tension. Still extremely youthful. Leaner fruit than the Chablis 2020 and all set for a long life. Some honey and lots of green vegetation and lime. A bit like an electric shock! Almost austere at this point! But long. 13% Drink 2027 – 2040

Drinking range: 2027 - 2040 Rating: 17++ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2024)

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 St Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere from Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy was not as clean on the nose as its peers, slightly cheesy at first and then light mothball scents. The palate is fresh on the entry with a pretty kiwi fruit and Cornice pear opening; but it never achieves the same level of tension and focus as other premier crus from the appellation, and it seems to drift on the finish. This may well be entering a dumb phase, and it may well re-find the promise it demonstrated from barrel, hence my plus sign. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 88+ Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2017)

Domaine Hubert Lamy

Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.

Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.

The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.

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RELATED PRODUCTS

2021 SAINT AUBIN Princée Domaine Hubert Lamy

Côte d'Or Burgundy France 13% White
Chardonnay.

(volume was off 50% in 2021). Equally cool and airy aromas of Granny Smith apples, lemon-lime and essence of pear give way to dense and almost suave medium weight flavors that possess fine volume and noticeably better de...(read more)

Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com

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