COCKBURN

The only classic declaration from the Symington family this year, declared in celebration of Cockburn’s bicentenary. The wine emanates mostly from Quinta dos Canais, bolsterd by fruit from Vale Coelho and Quinta do Cachão do Arnozelo, all in the Douro Superior. Touriga Franca is the largest component of the blend (41%) followed closely by Touriga Nacional (37%). Old vines, Sousão and Alicante Bouschet make up the balance. Mostly picked eight days after the rain, which greatly benefited the ripeness and balance. Deep, ripe and dense initially on the nose, still a bit raw, this wine opened up after a couple of days to reveal a lovely scented berry fruit bouquet (reflecting the relatively high proportion of Touriga Nacional); similarly lovely plum and berry fruit on the palate with lovely fine-grained, gravelly tannins building in the mouth and a long structured finish. Not the biggest of the 2015s but this wine combines depth and finesse in equal measure. This is Cockburn back on form: a must buy for me! Rating: 18 Richard Mayson, www.richardmayson.com  (Sept 2017)

This was the Syms’ second vintage port from this house. From 70% Quinta dos Canais and quite a bit from Quinta do Vale Coelho. South-facing vines. 40% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca, 9% old mixed vines (350 g of fruit per vine) and a bit of Alicante and Sousão. 3,500 cases – just 10% of production (very unusual in the world of wine). Blackish purple. Neat and focused and fresh and luscious. Quite sweet and purple and very charming. Tingling on the finish. Very exciting and energetic. Some black-pepper top note on the sweetness. Quite a dry end. Lots of chew. Very long term and ambitious. Hint of Edinburgh rock. Rating: 18.5+ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Aug 2017)

Fantastic aromas of crushed berries and flowers. Some mineral undertones. Violets. Very fine and polished with ultra-fine tannins. Medium sweet. Fresh and extremely clean. Very crisp and clean for such hot year. This celebrates the 200th anniversary of Cockburn. Best in 2026. Rating: 94 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Jul 2017)