NOVAL NACIONAL

The 2016 Quinta do Noval Naçional Vintage Port comes (of course) from the famous parcel of ungrafted vines. Comparing it side by side, the Naçional does not have the immediacy of the regular Noval. It is darker, more introspective, more complex and beguiling, the black fruit complemented by subtle desiccated orange and marmalade aromas. What strikes first on the palate is the fineness of the tannins. This is utterly harmonious, silky in terms of texture, and extraordinarily cohesive. You don’t know whether to drink this or stroke it. It is an understated Naçional that almost deceives you into thinking that there is not power, but that crashes across the senses in the final third and on the aftertaste. It is a Naçional with a latent effect, its virtues becoming apparent not during but after imbibing. It is a quite profound Port, even though at this juncture you are just reading the first couple of pages of a very long and engrossing novel. Drinking range: 2034 - 2080 Rating: 98+ Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jun 2018)

According to AXA's wine man Christian Seely, 'Nacional shows you can make a great vintage port from one small 4.5-acre parcel.' Vines are all ungrafted with an average age of 50 years, including almost 20% 65-year-old Tinta Cão. They replace old vines with ungrafted cuttings with a success rate of hardly 50%. This little plot always looks thinner and a different green – less vigorous – apparently, producing fewer bunches and smaller grapes. Yields are tiny and only 170 cases of this were made, in exactly the same way as regular Quinta do Noval. We were lucky to be given a taste of it. Not all that blue; very dark concentrated crimson. Very rich and sweet with the rich, spicy aromas of the biscuits that used to be called gypsy creams. Broad, luscious nose. Rather complex and very dry on the finish. Massive tannins! No attempt to smooth or craft this wine. Very dense and wild. Though fresh on the end with just a suggestion of the heat of spirit. Wild and almost raw at this point. Drinking range: 2045 - 2080 Rating: 18 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2018)

Tiny yields from these legendary ungrafted vines in 2016 with a total production of just 170 cases from this 4.5 acre plot. The average age of the vines is around 50 years old and grapes from these mixed plantings were supplemented by 20% Tinto Cão (approx. 60 years old) from the same Nacional plot: closed and dense initially but showing liquorice-like super ripeness as the wine opened up; dark chocolate intensity on the palate with layer upon layer of ripe, fleshy fruit and broad tannins all the way through to a gripping tannic finish. This is a wonderful wine, as rare as hen’s teeth and a privilege to taste at this stage. Rating: 19.5 Richard Mayson, www.richardmayson.com  (May 2018)

This is austere and tannic with reserve yet polish and finesse that is hard to come by. Blackberries, blueberries and hazelnuts and some fresh currants. Full-bodied, off-dry and extremely polished and focused. Only 175 cases made. Great length. Layers of tannic power. Perfect wine again. Try in 2025. Rating: 100 James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (May 2018)