GEVREY CHAMBERTIN
2019 Cuvée Bertin Domaine Lignier-Michelot
| Grapes | Pinot Noir |
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Gevrey Chambertin |
| ABV | 13% |
100% whole bunch. From Seuvrées, Creux Brouillard and Murots. Nose is again restrained, but again the palate is supple and full of dark fruit - very ripe cassis, all rather gorgeously mouthfilling and broad. 'What I like', says Virgile, 'is the balance of the very ripe tannins, very soft texture.' Drinking range: 2025 - 2033 L&S (Oct 2020)
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(from Les Seuvrées, Creux Brouillards and Les Murots; 100% whole cluster). Mild reduction reduces the expressiveness and blurs the distinction of what are clearly ripe fruit aromas. The delicious and attractively vibrant flavors are not as dense as those of the old vines Morey though they do offer sneaky good length on the youthfully austere and moderately rustic finale. This is good but not as good as the best of these villages. Drinking range: 2027 - Rating: 88-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2021)
From Seuvreys, Creux Billard, Es Murots, vinified with 100% whole bunches. There is a huge density of fruit on the nose after a very dark colour. Sweetly ripe, perhaps a little exaggerated here, very dark fruit, just short of raisiny. Length and abundant flavour. Saved by the whole bunch. Tasted: November 2020 3/5 stars. Rating: 89-91 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Jan 2021)
The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin "Cuvée Bertin" contains around 80% whole bunches. It has a very intense bouquet with powerful black cherry and cassis fruit. It manages to retain fine delineation but leans more towards the hedonistic side of the pleasure spectrum. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit laced with marmalade and allspice on the entry. Fine grip, quite irony towards the finish with a gamey aftertaste, this will deserve a couple of years in bottle. Drinking range: 2023 - 2033 Rating: 89-91 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Dec 2020)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine now of 13.5 hectares, some owned, some in fermage with a little bought in. An average of 290 barrels a year. 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis, so it's lutte raisonnée.
The wines are made with the least intervention possible, with lots of whole bunches. little extraction (one or two pigeages but mostly he's into remontages, then aged in barrel with 15-20% new wood. They have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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RELATED PRODUCTS
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2016 CHARMES CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru Domaine Huguenot
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After the Fonteny tasting this gets you immediately back to finesse and elegance. Super slick, lovely drive and intensity at the core. Fruit here is mature. Tightly wound for now, there is a mineral wrapping to the firm...(read more)
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