MOULIN A VENT
2021 Empreinte Domaine Paul Janin et Fils
Grapes | Gamay |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Beaujolais |
Other | Certified Organic |
ABV | 13% |
The Empreinte is really a calling card for the house style - but done in a way that means this is great to drink immediately, whereas the Tremblay and Heritage can be held for at least 5 years - and longer if you can resist them! The Empreinte gives a snapshot of the domaine and the Janin style using fruit from several varying plots. Each on slightly different soils - with vines of different ages rising to 100 years old. Much of the complexity here comes from this mosaic of vines and sites. And that is what you get; gently complex, bright and juicy gamay - that travels at altitude somehow. Lifted, red-accented fruit steels the show. Lovely easy feel and pure lines. Totally charming without ever getting too serious. L&S (Oct 2022)
12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
Clear crisp purple, works very well for the vintage. No criticism here, there is an energy and a volume of fruit which impress. Stays fresh too which is welcome. Drinking range: 2023 - 2024 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Apr 2023)
Domaine Paul Janin et Fils
There’s an understated, almost bookish air about Eric Janin. Quietly spoken and clearly always thinking - Eric exudes a calm and reassured confidence. Nothing happens here by accident. Since its foundation just over a century ago by Eric's great-grandfather, the estate has grown from being a grower who sold their grapes to a proper 'domaine' who take care of every part of the process. Now at 8.5 HA Eric is fully satisfied: '..any larger and we cannot do the vineyards justice..' Such is the intensity of work that they do amongst the vines. The family has worked this land organically for as long as Eric can remember, and he's currently having this made official, he'll be certified for the 2023 releases.
The winery is traditional for this part of the world but notably pristine compared to many we visit. In the vineyard too the family's work is meticulous spending as much time as is needed, unsurprisingly the vines are in picture-perfect good health. 'Of course, this is where we spend our days,' says Eric 'this is where the wine is made!'. Everything is done by hand and under organic principles. Taking no shortcuts, they ensure they bring in the best fruit they can - and with a philosophy of minimal intervention in the cellar they’re crafting pure and pretty wines that brim with energy.
This is a range of wines that express with great clarity the family’s different vineyards and reflect Eric’s eye for detail and conscientious approach. Janin is making sophisticated Beaujolais here and is a gold-standard for Moulin à Vent.
Brilliant Beaujolais
Unfortunately, the word 'Beaujolais' has become all too readily attached to the word 'Nouveau'. There's nothing wrong with a bit of fun, and at its best the old Beaujolly Nouveau is fun with a party hat on. But there is a lot more to Beaujolais than young wines being raced across France in sports cars and fruity red wine with your breakfast.
Those in the know are starting to purr appreciatively over the wines of the Beaujolais crus. These are the villages whose wines are good enough to be elevated above the generic Beaujolais name and have been given their own appellations.
It's all Gamay, so bright crisp fruit is the story of the day, but there's more - there's a silky feel almost occasionally redolent of Pinot Noir and even an ability to improve with a little age. From the subtle delights of Fleurie to the gently peppered Morgon, albeit all on the light side, this is a case that will enhance any wine lovers cellar/wine rack/cupboard under the stairs.
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