BEAUNE
2023 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Domaine Joseph Drouhin
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Beaune |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| Vineyard | Clos des Mouches |
Honeyed with sweet spices and toasted brioche on the nose, the suavely crafted mouthfeel glows with perfectly ripe fruit. Yellow cherries, starfruit, golden kiwi and feijoa deliver excellent complexity. The light, pleasant baby fat in the mid-palate is gently hemmed in by supporting acidity. This is another seamless Clos des Mouches, which seems to reach new heights each year. The Drouhin's 14 hectares of Clos des Mouches are evenly split between white and red plantings with six hectares of each currently in production. Rating: 95 Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Jan 2025)
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A little sweet oak still perceptible. Rich and sweet on the palate, though with good density and the usual delicate touch. Light but not intrusive bitterness on the end. This should please, if you can afford it. Long. (JR) Drinking range: 2029 - 2040 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2025)
Cask sample. Cream and lemon curd on the nose. Lots of charming fruit on the nose! Extraordinarily open and friendly and welcoming for a baby premier cru. Dried lime peel and Persian lime. This almost seems to pop in the mouth like sumac-spice space dust. Wonderful clementine sweetness and clementine-peel fragrance loosely laced together by green notes that drift from tomato vine to angelica, lemon verbena to tarragon. This is an orbit of flavour, elliptical in the way it moves, spherical in its sweetness and presence. Long and giving all the way. Drinking range: 2026 - 2036 Rating: 17 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2024)
Mid lemon, with the somewhat more sumptuous bouquet of Clos des Mouches, always more flesh right from the outset. This is a powerful fleshy wine, with a good oak support, probably higher in alcohol. Lower than expected yield here in white. May well be around 14% I suspect but that goes with this territory. Drinking range: 2029 - 2038 Rating: **** Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2024)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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