CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BÈZE
2023 Grand Cru Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Gevrey Chambertin |
Classification | Grand Cru |
Vineyard | Chambertin |
Cask sample. Like walking through the (Narnia?) wardrobe. Wood and doors and wooden panels and dark dust-musk-fragrant corners and then, boom, light and cloves, dark plums and wild-plums grilled on dark-rye toast. Very wood spicy. Toasted cumin. Tannins that scratch and pull and resist and draw you in and push you back. Very, very exciting and insistent. Long green-lead line. Leafy, meadowsweet fragrance on the finish. Absolutely thrilling. (TC) Drinking range: 2031 - 2045 Rating: 18 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2025)
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The 2023 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru undergoes two vinifications from Drouhin's own parcel and one from purchased fruit that was picked late. It has an intense nose with raspberry, mulberry, licorice and bergamot notes. The palate is medium-bodied and here that late-picked fruit does make its mark, perhaps shaving away some of the delineation and nerve that I discerned on the previous vintage. It is quite peppery on the finish and aftertaste. Give this four or five years in a bottle. Drinking range: 2028 - 2052 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2024)
Domaine Joseph Drouhin
Joseph Drouhin, founded in 1880 and still family owned, are one of the most well-respected names in Burgundy, especially through their flagship wine, the iconic Clos des Mouches.
A huge part of the Drouhin production comes from their own domaine fruit (78 hectares), and much of the rest comes from contracts such as that with the Marquis de Laguiche, who shook hands with the grandfather of the current generation, agreeing to let him manage his vineyards which included an important part of Le Montrachet; this collaboration endures. Today, the fourth generation is at the helm
Small refinements continue to be made here. The presses have been changed - a reversion to basket pressing for the reds, and for whites the presses are open - along with a number of other growers they are following the trend to think that slight oxidation of the juice before fermentation is not a problem and may add complexity as well as avoiding later problems of premature oxidation in bottle.
For the reds there has been the introduction of selective whole-bunch fermentation in the Côte de Nuits wines. The house style remains one that 'emphasises the natural elegance of great Burgundies' as they describe it. The domaine is all cultivated with an organic and biodynamic approach.
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