CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
2023 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot Domaine Berthelemot
| Grapes | Chardonnay |
| Colour | White |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
| Village | Chassagne Montrachet |
| Classification | 1er Cru |
| Vineyard | Abbaye de Morgeot |
2 plots. One planted in 1970, the other in 2006. 28% new oak. More expressive on the nose than the Pulignys. Fatter and broader but good verticality. Some tropical notes to the fruit and a lovely savoury edge too. This has good structure and should benefit from a few years in bottle once in the cellar. L&S (Dec 2024)
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Pale in colour. Prettily perfumed on top of the broader weight of this sector. Apples, quince and orange blossom make slight additions to the essential white fruit on the palate, with a good backbone of acidity as well. For the medium term. In bottle. Drinking range: 2027 - 2033 Rating: *** 91 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Dec 2024)
Domaine Berthelemot
Domaine Berthelemot is the creation of Brigitte Berthelemot, who is, by all accounts, something of a tour de force. Brigitte has, in a very short space of time (starting in 2006), knocked together a domaine of 15 hectares, spread over 45 parcels.
The basis of this spread was Domaine Garaudet in Pommard, but then they also took over Domaine Allexant. Charles Allexant was a bouilleur de cru (distiller of marc) who went round the villages plying his trade and who knew the Côte well, and also the vignerons for whom he distilled. In 1957 he bought a first vineyard in Volnay, and others followed, so that he built up a patchwork from Gevrey to the Côte Chalonnaise.
The final piece of the jigsaw was the purchase of Domaine Marey in Pernand.
The whole domaine is worked organically and they are just finishing the conversion so that they will be certified from 2021.
The vinification is overseen by Brigitte's son Thomas, after he worked alongside cellarmaster Marc Cugney (who has now retired) for a number of years. The reds are picked into small cases in which they are transported to the winery - and vinified in stainless steel after a 4 day cold maceration. Extraction is gentle and mostly by remontage. The wines then go into barrel with a maximum of 20% new wood. The whites are pressed, and after a short débourbage, are put in tank, where they begin their fermentation. Once the fermentation is under way, they are moved to barrel, with a maximum of 25% new wood.
The domaine is certified organic since the 2021 vintage
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RELATED PRODUCTS
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Certainly moved up a register here, in the sense of opulence of fruit from this vintage. The nose is much more powerful and expressive, yet with...(read more)
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