CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION
2023 1er Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Grapes | Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Bordeaux |
Village | Pessac-Léognan |
Classification | 1er Cru Classé |
ABV | 14.5% |
52.3 Merlot, 38.6 Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.1 Cabernet Franc: 68.7% new oak: 14.6% alcohol: 41 hl/ha This is an immensely potent medium-weight wine. Its dimensions seem to defy belief: I kept going back to the glass expecting a different outcome, but it was immovable and lithe at the same time! Every time I thought the aroma or flavour was starting to senesce, it came back with another masterful wave of stunning fruit and rigid stature. This is as commanding and focused as any Haut-Brion I have tasted, and its dogged persistence makes it a staggeringly brilliant and wondrously refreshing wine. The fruit tone is undoubtedly dark and brooding, and there are textural differences, infinitesimal changes of hue and angles of attack that surprise and amaze. My mind flashed to old war epics with divisions of tanks pushed with extended snooker cues across a cartographical interpretation of an expansive battlescape. I was minded to take the half-step to a perfect score as I sat here at La Mission, tasting through the entire portfolio of Domaine Clarence Dillon wines. I have already typed a 19.5+, as is sometimes the case with a wine that seems perfect, but I require time to inspect every single molecule willing perfection and God-given symmetry. But this wine does not possess these traits. It is restless, active, and ultimately imperfect in its mood, tension, and unreliability. It forces you to try to keep up. It does not conform to a box-fresh Haut-Brion model. And for me, that makes it all the more awesome. It wants me to work, it needs undivided attention, and it never stays still long enough for a complete and uniform analysis. I love that this wine might always be slightly out of reach because, regardless of its wraithlike abilities, I will be hot on its heels. Rating: 20 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2024)
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This is an exceptional Haut-Brion, offering juice and elegant balance alongside classically structured layers, generous but restrained, sense of architecture and building blocks of a truly great Left Bank wine. Rippling with sinewy muscles, juicy and controlled, packed with cocoa bean, espresso, liouqorice root, but none of these flavours dominate, knitted together, with a vertical lift. 100% new oak, Jean-Philippe Delmas director, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, no outside consultant. Drinking range: 2035 - 2050 Rating: 98-100 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
The 2023 Haut-Brion is superb. Silky, soft tannins enshroud a core of black fruit, gravel, chocolate, cloves and licorice, building into a potent, sumptuous, dazzling wine. Exotic and racy, with remarkable polish, this has a ton of potential. It’s an especially sensual, seamless Haut-Brion. All the 2023 needs is time—probably quite a bit of it, especially for readers who want a full-on Haut-Brion experience. Drinking range: 2033 - 2083 Rating: 95-97 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
This is a blend of 52.3% Merlot, 38.6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9.1% Cabernet Franc, and it was picked from September 6th, finishing on October 3rd. The nose is savoury, rich, and floral, with black cherry, damson, coherent and bright, and this proceeds a palate which is sinewy, savoury and correct. There is dark fruit aplenty here, blackcurrant, damson, blackberry and toast, with seams of savoury and toasted tannins, the dark, lithe and sinewy fruit draped very nicely over the tannic structure which lends the palate a significant degree of grip. All the same, a rather finessed interpretation of the Haut-Brion style here. Very promising, but not head-and-shoulders above the rest of the appellation for sure – it’s more of a photo finish – but still exceptionally good. The alcohol is 14.6% in analysis. Rating: 95-97 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
Château Haut Brion
1855 classification - Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Haut Brion is famously the only estate in Graves to have featured in the 1855 classification reflecting a long established reputation, even if, at the time, the crown was beginning to slip. During the 16th Century, Haut-Brion was briefly owned by Jean de Ségur of the Ségur family who at various times owned both Lafite and Latour. Jean de Pontac inherited Haut Brion as a wedding dowry in 1525 and, apart from a brief period during the French Revolution, his descendents owned the estate until 1801. The Pontacs were an interesting lot, including in their number a very pious Bishop, a politician, and François-Auguste Pontac who started a London inn called l'Enseigne de Pontac where Samuel Pepys enjoyed "a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan", finding it "hath a good and most particular taste". Jonathon Swift, however, thought the wine "dear at seven shillings a flagon" - 35p a bottle, if only! Haut Brion was the first Bordeaux wine known to have been imported into the USA when Thomas Jefferson had six cases shipped home to Virginia. Eventually, in the earlier years of the 19th Century, Haut Brion found its way into the hands of the Larrieu family. Preceding reputation was enough to get Haut Brion classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1855, and a string of copy cat estates appended "Haut Brion" to their names (a source of some litigation in the 1920's) but in reality the 19th and early 20th Centuries were not great times for the wines of Haut Brion. When the bank seized the assets of Milleret Larrieu after WWI, the estate fell into the hands of the Société des Glacières under who's unenlightened guidance much of the gardens were sold off the make way for expanding city of Bordeaux. They then offered Château Haut Brion to the City of Bordeaux, who turned it down, allowing American financier Clarence Dillon to realise his dream of owning a Bordeaux château, buying the estate in 1935. His descendents own Haut Brion to this day. The gravel soils of Haut Brion are planted with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc for reds, and a more or less 50/50 split of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the whites. There are around 45ha under vine. Haut Brion were one of the first estates to ferment in stainless steel. After fermentation, red wines spend up to two years in oak, previoulsy 100% new for the grand vin but, now, more like 35%. The second wine of the estate was known for many years as Bahans Haut Brion, but was renamed recently as Le Clarence de Haut Brion in honour of Clarence Dillon.
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