CHÂTEAU HAUT BRION BLANC
2023 Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan
Grapes | Sémillon, Sauv Blanc |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Bordeaux |
Village | Pessac-Léognan |
Classification | Cru Classé |
ABV | 13.5% |
51.8 Sauvignon Blanc, 41.9 Semillon: 50.3% new oak: 13.8% alc This is a much more structured and regal wine than La Mission in this vintage, but this does not mean it is the only white wine you should consider from Domaine Clarence Dillon. It is, however, the only one you should consider for serious cellaring. There is a colossal swoosh of lemons and limes followed by a couple of fast-moving chariots of brioche and then a monsoon of mint and finely diced sand dune succulents! There is so much going on here, and it is incredible. There is red wine intensity, but my glass contains a demure-looking white! Undoubtedly, Bordeaux’s dry white wines are going through a staggering renaissance right now that ought to make Burgundians blush, and this wine is always near the top of the pile. In 2023, it is the pinnacle white wine, but don’t even think of opening a bottle for ten years. Rating: 19.5 Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2024)
Alternatively, we may well have some bottles in one of our shops - why not give us a call on 0207 244 0522 or send an email to: sales@leaandsandeman.co.uk.
Or, check the RELATED PRODUCTS below for different vintages or wines of a similar style.
On the reductive style, with gunsmoke and flint, reserved but evident flesh to the fruit, captures the contrasting freshness and intensity of a great white wine, and delivers a feeling of being raised up through the palate. Exceptional quality, 3.2ph. 40% new oak. Drinking range: 2025 - 2040 Rating: 98 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)
The 2023 Haut-Brion Blanc is a quiet, restrained white. Pear, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all beautifully sketched, its mineral character emerging with time. The 2023 is not an obvious wine, initially quite aromatic but less expressive on the palate. The long, sustained finish takes things to another level. Complex and dynamic, the 2023 grows over time, hinting at an exceptionally brilliant future. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 93-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)
The blend here is 58.1% Sauvignon Blanc with 41.9%, well within normal limits for the estate. This has a glorious nose, all pine needle, lemon peel and crushed minerals, presented in a bright style with great linearity and energy. The balance is fresh, lively and zippy on the palate, broadening out to produce something much more polished and correct, with a lovely sense of bitter drive and cool energy to the fruit. This is quite delicious. A white with fabulous potential, with lots of reserved and tightly defined flavour, but also plenty of fresh and strident acidity. A top white Pessac-Léognan which I suspect has decades ahead of it. The alcohol is Rating: 96-98 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)
Château Haut Brion
1855 classification - Premier Grand Cru Classé Château Haut Brion is famously the only estate in Graves to have featured in the 1855 classification reflecting a long established reputation, even if, at the time, the crown was beginning to slip. During the 16th Century, Haut-Brion was briefly owned by Jean de Ségur of the Ségur family who at various times owned both Lafite and Latour. Jean de Pontac inherited Haut Brion as a wedding dowry in 1525 and, apart from a brief period during the French Revolution, his descendents owned the estate until 1801. The Pontacs were an interesting lot, including in their number a very pious Bishop, a politician, and François-Auguste Pontac who started a London inn called l'Enseigne de Pontac where Samuel Pepys enjoyed "a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan", finding it "hath a good and most particular taste". Jonathon Swift, however, thought the wine "dear at seven shillings a flagon" - 35p a bottle, if only! Haut Brion was the first Bordeaux wine known to have been imported into the USA when Thomas Jefferson had six cases shipped home to Virginia. Eventually, in the earlier years of the 19th Century, Haut Brion found its way into the hands of the Larrieu family. Preceding reputation was enough to get Haut Brion classified as a Premier Grand Cru Classé in 1855, and a string of copy cat estates appended "Haut Brion" to their names (a source of some litigation in the 1920's) but in reality the 19th and early 20th Centuries were not great times for the wines of Haut Brion. When the bank seized the assets of Milleret Larrieu after WWI, the estate fell into the hands of the Société des Glacières under who's unenlightened guidance much of the gardens were sold off the make way for expanding city of Bordeaux. They then offered Château Haut Brion to the City of Bordeaux, who turned it down, allowing American financier Clarence Dillon to realise his dream of owning a Bordeaux château, buying the estate in 1935. His descendents own Haut Brion to this day. The gravel soils of Haut Brion are planted with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc for reds, and a more or less 50/50 split of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the whites. There are around 45ha under vine. Haut Brion were one of the first estates to ferment in stainless steel. After fermentation, red wines spend up to two years in oak, previoulsy 100% new for the grand vin but, now, more like 35%. The second wine of the estate was known for many years as Bahans Haut Brion, but was renamed recently as Le Clarence de Haut Brion in honour of Clarence Dillon.
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