CHÂTEAU LASSÈGUE

The 2023 Lassègue is terrific. In fact, it is one of the best wines I have tasted here. A rush of inky dark fruit, crème de cassis, mocha, cloves and chocolate are all dialed up to the maximum in this decidedly opulent Saint-Émilion. Lassègue is not at all subtle, but it has a ton to offer for lovers of rich, heady wines. This is the first vintage in which Cabernet Franc drives the blend. Oak impact, thankfully, has been moderated as well. It remains a pretty lush, super-ripe wine, but it is impeccably balanced. This a terrific effort from Pierre Seillan. Drinking range: 2027 - 2038 Rating: 91-93 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)

Pierre Seillan is taking Lassègue in a completely new direction, and it shows. Tired of trying to balance phenolic maturity and alcohol levels in Merlot, he is moving the blend towards Cabernet Franc, using his experience at Vérité in California and in Tuscany. The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 43% Merlot, the first time Cabernet Franc has dominated. The harvest was relatively late, from September 18th to the 28th. The nose is clearly led by the Cabernet Franc, all dark fruit with liquorice, slightly stemmy red pepper, green peppercorn and menthol, with nuances of toasted oak and praline. It is very distinctive, and very different to previous vintages. The palate is supple and polished, showing a much riper sense of cohesion than the nose suggested, with texture, spice and a core of sinewy fruit. It still has the red pepper and mint, but it plays nicely with the toast, tobacco and vanilla notes, before it culminates in a dry grip at the end of the palate. A distinctive wine which may develop more appeal as the aromatics evolve, but for the moment this is one for committed Cabernet Franc fans only. The alcohol is 14% Rating: 90-92 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)

This is very linear and compact with lush fruit, but the tannins and acidity frame it so nicely. It's medium-bodied with excellent length and energy. The finish is really fine. 50% cabernet franc, 43% merlot and 7% cabernet sauvignon. Better than 2022.James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com (Apr 2024)