2022 CHÂTEAU PONTET CANET 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac, Lea & Sandeman

CHÂTEAU PONTET CANET

2023 5ème Cru Classé Pauillac

Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
Other Certified Organic
Sub-district Haut Médoc
Village Pauillac
Classification 5ème Cru Classé
ABV 13.5%

A wine to convince you of the quality and ripeness of Cabernet Sauvignon in Pauillac in this 2023 vintage, showcasing superbly supple tannins, great balance, depth and savoury blue and black fruit character, bitter cocoa bean, freshly cut herbs, black tea, fennel, all vivid and with purity of character. There is density here but it is not overt, with heightened raspberry leaf, peony and violet aromatics. Vinified in the newly-completed section of the cellars, with sunken qveri-style cement vats (and egg-shaped wooden vats coming for the 2024 vintage). 50% new oak for ageing, with 35% amphora and 15% one year old barrels. One of the wines of the vintage. New lighter bottle as of the 2022 around 490g, down from 815g in the past, 30 tonnes of CO2 saved just in terms of production. Harvest September 7, one day earlier than 2022, then slow picking through to October 10, later than many in Pauillac - and normal yields of around 40hl/h. Drinking range: 2035 - 2055 Rating: 98-100 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (Apr 2024)


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With the 2023 vintage, this estate has crafted a wine of unprecedented aromatic intensity and precision that marks a significant evolution. Revealing an elegant, fresh bouquet of mulberries and cassis mingled with notions of violets, gentian and menthol, the 2023 Pontet-Canet is medium to full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional, with a pure and precise core of fruit that's framed by ultra-refined tannins and a powerful but controlled profile, concluding with long, mineral, licorice-inflected finish. It's the result of more daring harvest decisions than in previous years: By picking the Merlot earlier to highlight fresh, fruity notes rather than baked, sun-kissed flavors and simultaneously delaying the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest until after September 28 to refine tannins, the 2023 Pontet-Canet marks a significant evolution at this renowned estate. At this early stage, its élevage appears to be more discreet, too. This wine, which I'd be delighted to own, is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, matured in 50% new oak barrels, 35% amphorae and 15% once-used barrels. Drinking range: 2025 - 2055 Rating: 96-98 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)

52 Cabernet Sauvignon, 39 Merlot, 6 Cabernet Franc, 3 Petit Verdot 50% new oak, 35% goes in concrete amphoras, 15% one year old barrels Harvest started on 7 September for Merlot and ended on 19 September. It resumed on 20 September for Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and they started picking Cabernet Sauvignon on 28 September and ended on 10 October. As owner Alfred Tesseron noted, with his trademark wry smile, “This was an interesting vintage; everything was easy.”  He then elaborated, explaining that the only real issues were the two heat waves, and these challenges were taken care of by his fascinating ‘sunscreen’ made from calcined clay from Limoges, which forms a milky white, ultra-fine sun-resistant layer on leaves and grapes and it remains in place for a couple of days before blowing away, thus neutralising the sun’s rays.  As it turned out, picking was a doddle, with a slo-mo Merlot harvest, and then the critical decision was when, precisely, to bring in the Cabernets.  While the famous ‘storm’ was announced, they felt confident that no matter how much rain may or may not fall, they would continue to take a leisurely approach to picking. Instead of harvesting in five days, they picked in two weeks – deliberately.  While others panicked about 100mm of water on its way, only 25mm fell, and this was beneficial, softening Cabernet skins.  With the benefit of smaller fermenters, giving the team more precision and a suite of new amphoras, Pontet-Canet has made a sensual, textural wine with enviable harmony from its tip to its tail.  There was no harsh extraction and they build a wine of great beauty, simply using soft hands, gentle infusion, and masses of confidence, and the results are extremely easy to appreciate because this is set to be a staggeringly successful wine, not only among P-C acolytes but I venture it will bring hordes of new palates to this table such is the glory in this glass.  The tannins are like shot silk, and the acidity brings a tear to the eye, making this one of the most memorable of all Pontet-Canets. In addition, Alfred is immensely proud, and rightly so, of his new, lightweight, branded bottle.  If you talk the talk, you must also walk the walk, and the Tesseron family must be cock-a-hoop about this mesmerising wine because it is not only a testament to their biodynamic tenets but is also uniquely linked to this estate and, therefore, could not be made anywhere else on earth. Rating: 19+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (May 2024)

The 2023 Pontet-Canet is a powerful, impressively constituted wine. Dark, vibrant and sensual in the glass, the 2023 is somber and mysterious in bearing. Black plum, gravel, lavender, graphite and licorice all meld together in the glass. More than anything else, the 2023 is incredibly well put together. In this vintage, the wine was blended at the beginning of élevage rather than at the end, as was the custom in the past. This is a gorgeous and hugely promising Pontet-Canet. I especially admire its finely cut precision and soaring aromatics. Drinking range: 2030 - 2048 Rating: 94-97 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)

Château Pontet Canet

Pauillac Cinquième cru 1855 Such is the speed with which Pontet-Canet's star has risen of recent that it could almost feel as if it's a new estate bursting on to the scene. But it has a long history, in keeping with its noble neighbours, but a long history of under-achievement, a moniker it has only just shaken off. During the 18th Century, Jean-François de Pontet, and his descendants, built up a very healthy portfolio of vineyard in the Médoc. Those that they owned in St Julien were, eventually, disposed of but the large estate that they assembled in Pauillac was retained and has resisted the fragmentation that afflicted so many Médoc estates over the years. Consequently, at 80ha of vines in a 120ha estate, Pontet-Canet is one of the largest Cru Classé estates. By the time of the 1855 classification, despite being the neighbour of Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite, Pontet-Canet could "only" scrape 5th Growth status. Herman Cruse bought the run down estate in 1865 and, initially, put in the neccessary investment to realise the vineyard's potential. But, by the mid-20th Century, Pontet-Canet's production was mediocre at best. Salvation came when the Cruse family, beset with scandal, were forced to sell Pontet-Canet to a Cognac shipper Guy Tesseron in 1975. He, with his son Alfred, have, at last, allowed Pontet-Canet to blossom. It has taken a lot of work, a lot of investment, and a lot of time to perform the miracle but, since the mid-1990's, Pontet-Canet has produced wines of immense quality and longevity, much loved by Robert Parker and far exceeding 5th Growth status. Lying on a wide plateau of poor gravel soils, with Mouton Rothschild and d'Armailhac immediately to the north and the Carruades de Lafite vineyard to the west, Pontet-Canet is planted to 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, the first classed growth vineyard in the Médoc to do so. In keeping with that, they have eschewed tractors in favour of horses, who's hooves are kinder to the soil than tractor tyres. The Grand Vin spends 16 to 20 months in wood, of which 60% typically is new. There is a second wine - Les Hauts de Pontet Canet.

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