CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE BLANC

2023 Cru Classé Pessac-Léognan

Colour White
Origin France, Bordeaux
Village Pessac-Léognan
Classification Cru Classé
ABV 14%

Distinctive as ever, right at the top of what Pessac Léognan Blanc can deliver. Structured, fleshy white peach and pear, waves of salted cracker and sage, creamy texture, great length, just a brilliant wine. A buy. Drinking range: 2025 - 2038 Rating: 98 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)


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The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc is quite the extrovert. Apricot, passion fruit, mint, tangerine peel and pineapple all soar out of the glass. Medium in body, with gorgeous texture, the 2023 is quite showy. I imagine it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Drinking range: 2026 - 2037 Rating: 94-96 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)

This takes half the crop, the remainder split between the two second wines, and the blend is 90% Sauvignon Blanc, with 5% each Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. I don’t usually comment on colour an primeurs, but the density of pigment here stands out compared to Les Hauts and Le Petit. The fruit comes with some honeyed overtones on the nose, smoked peach and orange, complexities which are carried onto the palate, which is rich with the flavours of gorse, freesia, peach, orange, mango and pear. Beneath I see honeyed veins and infused minerals, with streaks of bitterness. There is grip and structure here, and great persistence too, the finish and length shimmering with deliciously bitter phenolics. And yet it has freshness and drive too. A superb white Smith-Haut-Lafitte. One for the cellar. Tasted twice. The alcohol is around 14%. Rating: 96-98 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)

Aromas of white fruits, crisp orchard fruits, spices, smoke, spring flowers and pear introduce the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, layered and textured wine with a fleshy core of fruit and racy acids, concluding with a mineral, fresh and long finish highlighted by delicate notes of thyme and garrigue. Comprising 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sémillon and 5% Sauvignon Gris and matured in 50% new oak, this blend is among the finest white wines produced at this address. Drinking range: 2025 - 2045 Rating: 94-96 Yohan Castaing, www.robertparker.com (Apr 2024)

Château Smith Haut Lafitte

Owned by the Cathiard family since 1990, Smith Haut Lafitte has a history that extends back to 1365. Originally owned by the Bosq Family, it was bought by Scotsman George Smith in the eighteenth century, and he gave it his name. He also built the manor house, and shipped the wine back to England.

In 1842, it passed, from his mother, to a M. Duffour-Dubergier, who was mayor of Bordeaux. His work raised the quality level and it was classified Grand Cru in the 1855 classification. The 20th century was mostly about Louis Eschenauer and his company, which distibuted the wines and eventually bought the property in 1958, investing over the time and building the barrel cellar.

The Cathiards fell in love with Smith in 1990, and have lavished care and considerable investment on it since then. Daniel Cathiard was a former ski champion, a member of the famous French Olympic team that included Jean-Claude Killy, and it was at that time that he met his wife Florence. Both have impressive track records of running businesses. Daniel built up the small chain of supermarkets that he inherited, and added a chain of sports shops, the group employing nine thousand people. Florence worked with him and also ran her own advertising company, ending up in a senior position in the McCann group. In 1990 they sold all their business interests to concentrate on Smith, where they have lived since. One of their daughters runs the Caudalie beauty products company (products based on the polyphenols extracted from grape pips), and the other two boutique hotels, including the 'Sources de Caudalie', next to Smith.

The Cathiards have since bought Château Cantelys in Martillac, and also, in 2012, part of the vineyard of Château Le Thil, as well as the house and the park. More recently they have been involved in the consortium which bought Château Bearegard (Pomerol) and Château Bastor Lamontagne (Sauternes).

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