CLOS SAINT DENIS
2023 Grand Cru Domaine Lignier-Michelot
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
Village | Morey Saint Denis |
Classification | Grand Cru |
ABV | 13.5% |
Vineyard | Clos Saint Denis |
There's a different kind of tension here. The silky serenity of the Clos de la Roche gives way to something that's more like cats in a sack, pulling this way and that, both juicy and texturally thick with fine tannins. Extraordinary energy again, and very long. Drinking range: 2035 - L&S (Nov 2024)
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There is one barrel and 60 liters of the 2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru with around 80% of the whole cluster. This has a more backward and less harmonious bouquet than the Clos de la Roche. Touches of potpourri filter through the dark berry fruit. It's quite minerally, but yet to cohere as it will do during the remaining barrel maturation period. The palate is medium-bodied and quite fleshy in the mouth. It has very pliant tannins, though here I am looking for a bit more backbone toward the finish that just tapers a little. Still, this will give 15 to 20 years of drinking pleasure. Drinking range: 2027 - 2045 Rating: 92-94 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Nov 2024)
Domaine Lignier-Michelot
A domaine now of 13.5 hectares, some owned, some in fermage with a little bought in. An average of 290 barrels a year. 25% regionals, 50% Villages, 20% Premiers crus and 5% Grands Crus. Virgile Lignier worked at the domaine with his father Maurice from 1988, beginning to bottle some of the wine from 1992 (it had previously been sold to the négoce), taking over in 2000, which was the vintage when he first bottled all the domaine's production.
In the vineyard Virgile made significant changes, stopping the use of herbicides, and beginning to plough instead. Green harvesting to limits yields followed, along with greater attention to grape selection. The domaine works organically except in extremis, so it's lutte raisonnée.
The wines are made with the least intervention possible, with lots of whole bunches. little extraction (one or two pigeages but mostly he's into remontages, then aged in barrel with 15-20% new wood. They have a lovely combination of enough body and richness, combined with a lively clarity of expression. The old vines village cuvées are seriously good, and great value too. Going up the scale each site seems to speak very clearly of its source and there is a brightness and energy along with full, seamless fruit.
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