CLOS VOUGEOT

2023 Grand Cru Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Grapes Pinot Noir
Colour Red
Origin France, Burgundy
District Côte d'Or
Sub-district Côte de Nuits
Village Vougeot
Classification Grand Cru
ABV 13.5%
Vineyard Clos Vougeot

On left of the Clos half-way up as you look up the hill but Thibault has 1 row that is 200m long - covering three different soils on this line. Clay, limestone and Silt. Giving it an added complexity compared to many of the wines that come from this enormous and heterogenous Grand Cru. His parcel is by the gate - just next to Vosne 'Violettes'. In 2023 this is relatively big and bold. Like Vosne on a gentle course of anabolic steroids. Totally charming - great balance but effusive with everything. A lift of freshness arrives via the gentle scrape of minerality that builds on the finish - strawberry juice and pure joy stays with you long after swallowing. L&S (Nov 2024)


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These are very long, 200-meter rows that cover three types of soil. About one-third are young vines with the rest planted in 1944. The open nose shows off bramble, baked blueberries, used tea leaves and baking spices. This lumbers like an oversized load on a small country road, but it's firmly strapped in by sinewy tannins and steely acidity. Give this at least five years. Rating: 94 Christy Canterbury MW - TimAtkin.com (Jan 2025)

(from a .72 ha parcel on the Vosne side in the middle of the vineyard abutting the southern wall). A very pretty, indeed even elegant, nose proffers notes of the essence of red berry along with soft spice, newly turned earth and a whiff of violet. There is fine volume if only average density to the seductive and caressing medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a lingering if noticeably warm finale. This could use better depth so a few years of keeping should help to develop more over time. ( Drinking range: 2033 - Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes 15% whole cluster from the old vines in the southern part of the parcel, planted in 1947, and underwent more punching down. It has a well-defined bouquet, understated at first but ultimately quite seductive with slightly earthy red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with pretty red berry fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. Very harmonious and poised with impressive length, this should keep pace with the 2022 as it ages in bottle, though it is cut in a more finessed style. Drinking range: 2027 - 2048 Rating: 93-95 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2025)

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

Thibault Liger-Belair has two hectares in Les Saint Georges, the vineyard which gives Nuits the rest of its name, and 60 ares out of a total of 4 hectares of the Grand Cru Richebourg, as well as a good holding in the Clos Vougeot and some well-placed village wines. The vineyards are a good start, but it is Thibault himself who has catapulted this domaine straight into the very top echelons of Côte de Nuits domaines from his first vintage (2002). Thibault was trained as an oenologist but first worked as a wine buyer. He has come to wine making with a wide experience of wine buying, and has had the advantage of having discussed wine-making for many years, with the benefit of his oenological background, with some of the best winemakers of the world. Viticulture is biodynamic (since 2005), yields low but not ludicrously low, everything is pragmatic, so that he should be doing just what is necessary and no more. He uses 40-50% new wood maximum. The wines are bright, pure, focused, aromatic and elegant without lacking anything in the way of stuffing.

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