MERCUREY
2023 1er Cru Les Naugues Domaine Raquillet
Grapes | Pinot Noir |
Colour | Red |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte Chalonnaise |
Village | Mercurey |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 13.5% |
Vineyard | Les Naugues |
As ever this is the broadest and most muscular of the Raquillets' 1er Crus. There certainly is good structure this year but it is also has a very nice sheen and silky texture. The fruit is a shade darker with a charming polished dark-cherry fruit dominant leading the aromatics at the core - there's a savoury line too and then a gentle whiff of hedgerow flowers. Charming but will need a moment to assimilate - still just a baby. Best from 2028 L&S (Nov 2024)
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Domaine Raquillet
François took over the running of this estate from his father, Jean, in 1990, with his wife Emmanuelle. Records show that the same family have made wine in Mercurey since the 1600s, and Francois is the eleventh generation. His daughter Jeanne now works alongside François slowly taking over the day to day work of the domaine, her passion is really viticulture - so she loves her work in the vineyards and represents the 12th generation at the helm of this stellar property.
With eleven hectares under vine, François has substantially reduced yields over the years, introduced higher quality oak barrels (up to 50% new wood for the Premiers Crus) and significantly increased the quality of wines made here. He and Jeanne explain that they try to avoid over-extraction at all costs - their one aim is to deliver the beautifully pure fruit profile they get out of the old vines - they do this with great success. It is a wonderfully transparent style - combined with good mid-palate weight.
Thankfully there were smiles all around this year once again and the sad story of the terrible run of vintages here (in terms of yield) has finally paused. 2022 was back to more normal levels at harvest and the superb 2023 has also kept the cellar well filled. These wines are great value across the range.
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