CUVÉE DES CRAYÈRES
Extra Brut Grand Cru Ambonnay Champagne Rodez NV
Grapes | Pinot Noir, Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Champagne |
Other | Certified Organic |
Village | Ambonnay |
Classification | Grand Cru |
ABV | 12.5% |
40% chardonnay, 60% pinot noir; 20% 2019, 22% 2018, 29% 2017, 29% older reserves; 86% vinified in barrels, 15% in vats; 30% malolactic fermentation; 2.5g/L dosage; 8000 bottles.
2019 was the last vintage in which Eric had final responsibility for the blending before handing over to his son Michael.
Eric Rodez captures the personality of Ambonnay from his very first cuvée, in depth, complexity and structure, and especially so in 2019. There is grand confidence, concentration and presence here, the warmth of the vintage in Ambonnay projected in strawberries, apples and figs. It’s backed with layers of spice and even fruit mince spice. The fine chalk minerality of the village unites with nicely poised acidity to carry a long finish of impressive presence and intensity. Pinot noir takes a confident lead, bathed in red fruits and spice. Tasted in 2023 Rating: 92 Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide (Jul 2024)
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*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Demeter). Tirage 2020, disgorged January 2024.
Smoky sweet citrus and so intensely orange citrus that it reads like an ode to clementines. Citrus-leaf greens and citrus-oil golds intensify the fragrance and intensify the glimmering ripeness. Full-bodied, slow and steady, enveloping build-up. The finest bubbles embroider a furl of creaminess on the finish. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: 17 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2024)
Very tight and harmonious. A very strong statement with massive life and vivacity. No hurry to drink. Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2019)
Champagne Rodez
Eric Rodez and his wife Martine are in the process of handing over to their son and daughter-in-law Mickaël and Aurélie, who are the ninth generation of the family since the domaine was established in 1757. The family own nine hectares of vines in the Grand Cru classified village of Ambonnay, on the south-eastern corner of the Montagne de Reims. While the majority (80%) is Pinot Noir, they have 18% Chardonnay, all grown on deep chalk and limestone with very little topsoil.
The domaine was the first French farm to receive the ‘HVE’ (High Environmental Value) certificate in 2012. They also received their organic certification in 2012, and Demeter (biodynamic) certification three years later. They use aromatherapy and essential oils to combat attacks of mildew and powdery mildew.
In the cellar Eric learned much from working as an oenologist at Krug. Winemaking takes place in in small oak barrels, no cold stabilising and no filtering. They do not actively seek malolactic fermentation, but the temperature in the barrels is allowed to rise and some (around 20% on average) will go through it. This gives Eric (and Mickaël, who made has made the wines since 2020) another component to add complexity in the blends.
The range can be seen as split into three - Vins d'Auteur, Parcellaires and wines that express the terroir Ambonnay in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Empreinte Blanche and Empreinte Noire. The Vins d'Auteur follow the logic of blending that has always been such a part of the tradition of Champagne, creating anew from each vintage, but with the experience and the reserve wines from the vintages that have preceded. These reserve wine can make up to 70% of these cuvées. The Parcellaires are more or less the opposite, being the unblended product of single vineyards in a single vintage, while the Empreintes are blended from five to seven plots, from a single variety in a single year.
The Christmas Icons Mixed Six
A case for the connoisseur: this is half a dozen wines that could play a leading role in any Christmas line-up. The headline act may well be Château des Tours at better-than-case-price, but it's a stellar line-up with Grand Cru grower Champagne, Patagonian Chardonnay from Jean-Marc Roulot and a powerful Châteauneuf also in the mix.
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