GONET-MÉDEVILLE

100% pinot noir; 90% Bisseuil, 10% Ambonnay; 2019 base vintage; bottled April 2020; disgorged January 2023; 5g/L dosage - all on back label; 30,000 bottles.

Such is the blush tint of this blanc de noirs that it renders the hue a pale salmon copper of rosé proportions. It well captures the elegance of Bisseuil and the fruity style of the 2019 harvest in a pretty profile of pink grapefruit, strawberry hull and nashi pear. It's young, precocious and tangy, with lively acidity and fine chalk minerality portrayed with transparent detail and perfectly supported with low dosage.

Primary, short and simple it may be, but to its credit it doesn't try to be anything more than this, and it's all the better for it. An elegant apéritif to serve as you would a rosé. Tasted in 2023 Rating: 91 Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide (Jul 2024)

100% Pinot Noir from Bisseuil (90%) and Ambonnay (10%). 80% 2020. Tirage April 2021, disgorged January 2024. Dosage 4 g/l. The colour is so deep it's almost rosé. Watermelon rind and rain on steel and then alpine strawberries, black pepper and stones. Soft bubbles offset by fine-ground chalk texture. Long and gripping every tiny space in the mouth. Just great. Bold orange and dusty mint. Long and insistent. Not letting go. Amazing length. Drinking range: 2024 - 2029 Rating: 17 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2024)

100% Pinot Noir, 90% being from Bisseuil and 10% from Ambonnay. Savoury nose and some evolution with punch and attack. Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2022)

80% 2018 base, bottled April 2019, disgorged September 2021. 5g/l dosage.Winemaker's notes (Apr 2022)

For me blanc de noirs – made only with black grapes – is true winter champagne, sappy, structured, with a faint tinge of black cherries, a wine you can imagine drinking on a frosty day. This one has incredible finesse and charm. A real find.'Victoria Moore, The Daily Telegraph (Nov 2020)

Or you could go for one of the many grower-producers who have emerged in the past 20 years to shake up the grandes marques, such as the quite thrilling (and pound for pound, in the Champagne context, remarkable value) blancs de noir from Gonet-Médeville, with its laser-guided richness and lipsmacking, saline finish.David Williams, The Observer (Dec 2019)

Apart from a whisper of pink/copper in the colour, there’s fruit and brioche richness riveted by lively freshness in this all-Pinot Noir Champagne from a grower in Bisseuil in the Marne Valley.Joanna Simon, www.joannasimon.com (Dec 2019)

The latest release of the NV Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Brut is a rich, vinous Champagne, wafting from the glass with aromas of red apples, mint, honeycomb and dried white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad but incisive, with a fleshy attack, excellent concentration at the core and a long, penetrating and distinctly saline finish. The incipiently fine but youthfully frothy mousse will calm down with a few more months on cork. A third of this cuvée is fermented in used barrels, the balance in tank, and it sees six grams per liter dosage. Drinking range: 2018 - 2028 Rating: 93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (May 2019)

(100% pinot noir; L 01.12): Pale gold. Raspberry, blood orange, smoky minerals and white flowers on the fragrant nose. Juicy, spicy and light on its feet, with zesty minerality lifting and sharpening fresh red fruit and spicecake flavors. Shows distinct delicacy and cut on the finish, with the mineral and floral notes repeating. Rating: 91 Josh Raynolds, www.vinousmedia.com (Dec 2013)