HERI HODIE
Brut 1er Cru Champagne Roger Coulon NV
Grapes | Pinot Meunier |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Champagne |
Other | Certified Organic |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 12% |
100% Meunier, 98% from their perpetual solera. Vineyards are farmed regeneratively on the principles of agroforestry. All wines undergo spontaneous fermentation. Dosage 3 g/l.
Roger Coulon's wines took my breath away, across the board. This 'entry' wine was thrilling. Quince, loquat, brine and edging towards kombucha and oolong tea and texture. So much tucked into one wine. Vibrating, spicy, but dense. Pulsing with energy and gingerbread and edges; lines and curves and ribbons and a hint of something feral. Super-exciting. Long toasty finish, like roasted chestnuts on a winter evening. Drinking range: 2023 - 2030 Rating: 17.5 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jun 2023)
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*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
'Yesterday Today' the Latin name proclaims. 90% comes from a solera of Pinot Meunier. Superb rich autolysis on the nose, soft attack, full and expressive with fruit and dried fruit, almost waxy, then juicy - harmonious and classy - soft and charming. Drinking range: 2022 - 2026L&S (Oct 2022)
Organically farmed vineyards. 100% Meunier from their 'réserve perpetuelle', started by Eric Coulon 25 years ago. The grapes come from Vrigny, Coulommes la Montagne and Villers-Allerand. Disgorged July 2022. Dosage 3 g/l. There's a little wild element to this wine, a dryad spirit. But so much spirit! It's an outrageous act of lusty fruit, crab apple and quince to begin with and then tucked into the folds of shimmering cherry-sweet acidity you can taste the peaches, the cranberries, blueberries. A crackle of sweet pastry. Satin texture. Succulent finish. Drinking range: 2024 - 2030 Rating: 17 Tamlyn Currin - www.JancisRobinson.com (May 2024)
The NV Brut Heri Hodie 1er Cru is soft, open-knit and quite expressive, much of that coming from the 50% solera-style blend that informs this cuvée. Orange peel, lemon confit, hazelnut, exotic floral notes and a touch of wood add pretty touches of complexity throughout. The Heri Hodie is one of the creamier, generous wines in the range today. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Drinking range: 2019 - 2026 Rating: 92 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Nov 2019)
Champagne Roger Coulon
Eric and Isabelle Coulon, now joined by their children Edgar and Louise, have around 11 hectares of vines in Premier and Grand Cru sites in Vrigny, Gueux and Coulommes-la-Montagne on the Montagne de Reims, and Chouilly on the Côte des Blancs. The vineyards are farmed organically under the principles of agroforestry. They are justly proud of the history of the vineyard, which goes back to the cultivation of vines here in the 6th century, and also of their own long family history, with Edgar and Louise being the ninth generation.
The vines are in around 100 parcels, so although they aim to press by parcel, some do end up going together. Around one third is vinified in tank, the rest in barrel. Both Edgar and Louise have trained in wine-making elsewhere, Louise at Domaine Ott, and Edgar with Philippe Pacalet and Fredéric Cossard in Burgundy, but also in England and Australia.
The family aim to pick at decent maturity, to give the wines a natural balance and feel, and the maximum dosage used is 3g/l. The second fermentation is at around 4.5-4.8 bar, a little lower than the classical 5 bar, giving what Eric describes as 'measured effervescence'. 'I make wine of Champagne not Champagne', he adds, 'Everything at Roger Coulon needs to be harmonious, that's what counts the most for me'.
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