DOM PÉRIGNON

Racy, silky and vibrant in the glass, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is all about energy. Here the flavors are bright and delineated throughout, with veins of acidity and minerality that give the wine its sense of drive. Mint, rosemary and yellow-fleshed fruits linger on the finish with the classic DP reductive overtones that are such a signature. Once again, the 2004 Dom Pérignon truly shines. The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a wine to treasure over the next thirty or so years. Drinking range: 2015 - 2044 Rating: 97+ Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (Jul 2015)

Yet another masterpiece created by Richard Geoffroy. Unmistakable Dom Pérignon style with unparalleled silkiness throughout the palate. The mousse is worthy of its own chapter and the elegance is striking. Nice minerality and floral notes with citrus overtones. Slightly short now, but time will fill in the small gaps in the beginning of life. This time it tasted intensely toasty and fairly close to the 1983 when I tasted that vintage for the first time at the same age as the 2004 is now. Drinking range: 2014 - 2030 Rating: 97 Decanter Magazine (Oct 2014)

53% Pinot Noir, 47% Chardonnay. Delicious hint of struck-match reduction with firm citrus behind that. Similar on the palate, with strong echoes of white burgundy even though the bead is fine and noticeable. Fine notes of orange emerge. Terrific harmony of power and elegance, flavour and finesse. Drink: 2014-2030 Rating: 18.5/20 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jul 2014)

Lily-of-the-valley perfume and scents of lightly toasted brioche and almond rise from the glass of Moët’s 2004 Brut Dom Pérignon, along with hints of the apricot, pear and grapefruit that then inform a luscious and creamy yet strikingly delicate as well as consummately refreshing palate. Sweet-saline savor of scallop – also already intimated in the nose – lends compulsive saliva-inducement to a ravishingly rarified and persistent finish, joined by alkaline, nutty, liquid-floral, and nori seaweed notes for a performance of head-scratching subtlety and intrigue. (In case my description hasn’t already made clear, we have here inter alia a fantastic sushi wine.) This will be worth following for at least the next 6-8 years, in the course of demonstrating that iconic status as a luxury brand, and elevated (albeit secret) production numbers by no means preclude a wine of understated as well as profound beauty. What’s more, the price-quality rapport here is excellent by any Champagne standards, and puts that of many a prestige cuvée to shame. Rating: 95 David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (Jan 2014)

Tremendous biscuity yeastiness – they’ve done a great job with the instant complexity and fragrance. The body is a bit lighter and less lengthy than the 2002. Fantastic smoky, refined tender nose. Delicious – but not (yet?) among their best. Rating: 17++ Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long, smoky finish. I'd bet on this taut, youthful Champagne rewarding many more years of patience. Rating: 94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long, smoky finish. I'd bet on this taut, youthful Champagne rewarding many more years of patience. Rating: 94 Josh Raynolds, www.vinousmedia.com (Nov 2013)