CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
2012 1er Cru Champgains Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
Village | Chassagne Montrachet |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 13.5% |
Vineyard | Champgains |
Sweet start with gentle concentration. Interestingly different and individual. Rounded with a honeyed touch, but still fresh, savoury even. Pure. L&S (Dec 2013)
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(from 10+ year old vines) There is just enough reduction present to blur slightly the clarity of what appears to be a ripe mix of both white and yellow orchard fruit scents. The clean, cool and precise flavors possess good energy as well as a lovely mouth feel on the saline-inflected and exceptionally refreshing finish. I like the refined mouth feel and if this adds more depth than is envisioned by my rating then I may be judging this a bit too conservatively. 2018+ Rating: 89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2014)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
Slight matchstick reduction and not so much opulent fruit as their Morgeot. Clean and satisfying with a lowish acidity. 2015-2020 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012. In 2021 they began the process of organic certification.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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