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2014 RÉSERVE DE LA COMTESSE Pauillac, Lea & Sandeman

RÉSERVE DE LA COMTESSE

2014 Pauillac

Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
District Left Bank
Sub-district Haut Médoc
Village Pauillac
ABV 13%

There was an incredibly long harvest at Pichon Lalande - starting on the 16th of September they hung up the secateurs pm the 20th of October. This allowed for each plot to be brought in at the optimum moment. Such a luxurious spell for the pickers has given a fairly impressive wine - full of intense fruit and lovely balance from the ripe, rounded tannins. The lovely weight of fruit at the core of this elegant wine is restarained and charming. THere is a gentle sense of power and push - which continues to the long fisnish. Rating: 92 L&S (Apr 2015)


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This sneaks into the value category, certainly if you are looking to find a way of getting 1855 classified glamour and brilliance at a more affordable price. It's a wine that we open regularly at home - luscious black fruits, cherry pit and fennel, grippy enough to be a Pauillac but open enough for drinking now. This was the longest harvest on record because they had brought in true plot-by-plot picking at this point, stretching from September 16 to October 14, and the first year in their new cellar. Drinking range: 2024 - 2038 Rating: 94 Jane Anson, Decanter (Dec 2024)

The 2014 Reserve de la Comtesse has a more evolved bouquet with red berry fruit, dried blood and mocha scents, a touch of wild mint emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with softer tannins than its peers, suggesting it is fully mature. It has a lovely smooth, slightly feral finish that will appeal to many, but it lacks a bit of mineralité and precision. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting. Drinking range: 2025 - 2044 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Réserve de la Comtesse has a slightly meaty/dried blood scented bouquet that lacks the delineation and charm of Tourelles de Longueville. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, austere but there is a decent line of acidity and sufficient fruit on the finish to maintain balance. It just lacks excitement and a sense of energy. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting. Drinking range: 2020 - 2032 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Mar 2018)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Pauillac Deuxième cru 1855 Facing Château Latour across the road, at the southern end of Pauillac, are the twin Château Pichons. Originally one estate, the two were divided in 1850 on the death of Joseph Pichon. His son Raoul inherited the title of Baron de Longueville and the vineyards of Château Pichon Longueville Baron de Longueville, whilst his daughters inherited the portion that became Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The only daughter to produce off-spring was Marie-Laure who had married Comte Henri de Lalande in 1818 and it was her descendents, therefore, who shaped the future of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (or Pichon Comtesse as it is often more conveniently known). The two estates continued to be run as a single vineyard for another ten years, allowing them jointly to be awarded 2nd Growth status in 1855. Pichon Comtesse is now owned by the Rouzard family, owners of the Champagne house of Louis Roederer. Under the ownership of May de Lencquesaing in the final quarter of the 20th Century, the vineyard area of Pichon Comtesse grew from around 40ha to today's 75ha. The vines are 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with the wine spending 18 months in wood (50% new). Pichon Comtesse produce one of the most highly regarded second wines - Réserve de la Comtesse (recently renamed Pichon Comtesse La Réserve') - which rivals many other estate's grand vins. The healthy reputation that Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande enjoys puts it clearly in the mould of a "super second" - those 2nd Growth estates who's wines merit comparison with the Premier Grand Cru Classés. Pichon Comtesse has had the better of comparisons with its sibling Pichon Baron whose fortunes waned during the 20th Century even if, today, they are on a more equal footing. It is inevitable that the two Pichons will be compared with one another, with Comtesse being a more subtle seductive wine than its slightly foresquare namesake.

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