BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

Upon meeting Carlo Ferrini for the first time some 15 years ago, I remember vividly when he described himself as a Sangiovesista, or an adherent of the school of Sangiovese. Many years later, and perhaps to cement that self-appointed moniker, the wine consultant has now settled in Montalcino, or the ultimate holy ground to Sangiovese. Ferrini has embarked on his Giodo estate (with beautiful vineyards and a newly inaugurated winery built precisely according to his technical specifications and wishes), creating his own temple to the mighty Tuscan grape. As a consultant, Ferrini has endured many stylistic transformations over the years, but the personality embraced in his 2016 Brunello di Montalcino celebrates varietal purity, balance and elegance, and I write those words free of hyperbole. Delicate forest berry fruits open to spice, forest floor and balsam herb. The wine presents a pretty wave of freshness, followed by firm tannins and enough fruity texture to smooth over the palate. This is a career-defining wine for this proud Sangiovesista. Production is 10,000 bottles. Drinking range: 2024 - 2045 Rating: 98 Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate (www.robertparker.com) (Dec 2020)

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Savoury, minerally cherry fruit with a suggestion of stalks and notes of new oak. Still very closed and embryonic on the nose. Super-elegant sour-cherry fruit that ends much less tart than at the first taste. Just a touch of creaminess and lots of freshness and finely grained tannins. Rather the opposite of the powerful Brunello style that once was the rule in this region. A little mouth-watering on the finish, which leans quite heavily on the sweet but super-charming oak frame. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 17 Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com (Mar 2021)

Situated in the south, between Sant’Angelo in Colle and Sant’Antimo, winemaker Carlo Ferrini established the now 6-hectare Giodo estate in 2002. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino was aged for 30 months in large French oak, followed by resting in concrete vats before bottling. Forward and polished aromatics of primary black cherry fruit, vanilla, sweet licorice, and crushed lavender are followed by an approachable palate, with just ripe plum, baking spice, and fresh earth. The tannins are supple and round, balanced with refreshing acidity without being austere. This is a very pretty wine that will cast a large net for enjoyment as there is purity matched with ease. I love this for its freshness now or enjoy over the next ten years. Rating: 94 Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com (Mar 2021)

The 2016 Giodo Brunello di Montalcino is darkly alluring with a slightly rustic feel that adds further sultry depths. A whiff of crushed stone and sage gives way to black raspberry with an underpinning of white pepper in a display of contrasts. It’s silky in texture with a polished feel to its ripe red fruits, motivated by juicy acids, while taking on notes of licorice and spice. Round tannins complete the expression, providing classic grip without slowing the wine’s progression and leaving hints of spiced orange to linger. Giodo’s 2016 won’t require years of cellaring to show its best, yet it will offer a long and open drinking window. Drinking range: 2022 - 2032 Rating: 92 Eric Guido, www.vinous.com (Nov 2020)

The personal project of the brilliant Carlo Ferrini, celebrating the pleasures of Sangiovese in a marked departure from the Cabernet and Merlot dominant wines that made his name as a consultant. This shows the higher acidity of Sangiovese, balancing sun-baked rosemary and firm plum and raspberry flavours, with lift, succulence and white pepper edging. Delicate and fragrant, with floral edging and a punch of tar and mocha on the finish. The 5ha of vines for Giodo are planted in Montalcino, producing 15,000 bottles each year. Drinking range: 2020 - 2042 Rating: 95 Jane Anson, Decanter (Aug 2020)