MOREY SAINT DENIS
2021 Grains Fins Domaine Stéphane Magnien
| Colour | Red |
| Origin | France, Burgundy |
| District | Côte d'Or |
| Sub-district | Côte de Nuits |
| Village | Morey Saint Denis |
| ABV | 12.5% |
Three different parcels in the bottom of the village, Crais, Crais Gillons and Bas Chenevery, all on calcareous soil which is very free-draining. Very pretty, bottled light - so delicate and fresh, yet still has presence and vinous richness builds to the finish. Drinking range: 2025 - 2033 L&S (Oct 2022)
| 12 | ||
*Case price discount: Mix any 12 bottles of wine (or 9 litre equivalent) or 6 bottles of Champagne, Spirits, Sweet Wine or Fortified (4.5 litres) to get the discounted 'case price' for each bottle.
(from Bas de Chenevery and Crais Gillon). There is just enough wood trimming the aromas of spicy red and dark pinot fruit and earth to merit pointing out. The supple and round flavors are also on the lighter side (though by no means dilute) with good vibrancy suffusing the mildly austere and balanced finale that is structured enough to pay 4 to 6 years of keeping if desired. Drinking range: 2026 - Rating: 87-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2023)
Well drained limestone soil. Fine mid purple. Pure and clean bouquet, nothing suspicious here. Fresh, refined, a Chambolle style Morey he suggests and I can see that. Light on its feet and rather beautiful. Young vines but they have given enough. Medium long finish in little red fruits. Drinking range: 2025 - 2029 Rating: 90-92 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2022)
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Stéphane's is a small domaine, a mere 4.5 hectares, with one full hectare of that in regional wine - Passetoutgrains and Bourgogne - but it is blessed with two Grands Crus and also a long history of not messing with nature. No pesticides have ever been used on this land, and the plants are nearly all the old 'Pinot tordu' - twisted Pinot with its gnarly stems which are less vigorous than the modern clones and said by many to make wines with more finesse.
Stéphane chaptalizes only to extend fermentations - these are wines which his father Jean-Paul used to describe as 'sage en alcool' - from 12 to 13% - the old vines do not make much alcohol. Wood use is also discreet, even though Stéphane has increased the proportion, he does not exceed 50% new wood on the Grands Crus, 25% on the Premiers Crus and on the village appellations, 15% new wood for one year only, then all into older barrels.
Stéphane says that he aims to make wines with more richness than his father's, 'but not black angular wines which have less relief. Wines which leave your mouth clean and clear, refreshed and revived and, above all, wanting another glass'. He destems 100%, gives the grapes a six-day maceration, then a classical fermentation with just two pigeages, and a little remontage (pumping over) at the end.
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