CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET
2023 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
Grapes | Chardonnay |
Colour | White |
Origin | France, Burgundy |
District | Côte d'Or |
Sub-district | Côte de Beaune |
Village | Chassagne Montrachet |
Classification | 1er Cru |
ABV | 13.5% |
Vineyard | Grandes Ruchottes |
Only 10% new oak, which belies the intensity of this wine. It's so typical of Grandes Ruchottes. Powerful, rich, concentrated. Ripe orchard fruits, some tropical notes too, sweet spice. The palate is a pure joy. It's a proper mouthful. So much going on. This is a complex wine that will require a bit of patience but there's already so much to enjoy. A lot of energy too. This is excellent winemaking. L&S (Dec 2024)
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Tressed throughout for three years now. One new barrel out of six. Mid lemon and lime with a discreet air of nobility, this is perfectly poised also on the palate. I know more exuberant examples, but this is remarkably classy with a fine backbone and a really long finish, with the fruit coming dancing back time and again. Magical finish. Drinking range: 2028 - 2036 Rating: **** 94-96 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Nov 2024)
Domaine Fernand & Laurent Pillot
The origins of the Pillot family in Chassagne can be traced back to the eighteenth century, when they seem to have been coopers more than vignerons. In the nineteenth century they abandoned barrel-making in favour of enlarging the property in Chassagne. Fernand and Laurent, who is the fourth generation, added to it again in 1992, and then in 2001 Laurent's wife Marie-Anne inherited half of her family's property, the Pommard domaine of Pothier-Rieusset, and Laurent and his father bought the other half. The domaine now stands at 14.5 hectares of vines across almost the whole length of the Côte de Beaune from Santenay to Beaune.
The Domaine is worked according to organic principles and are ploughed – no chemical weedkillers are used. They have also been members of the Dephy-ECO-phyto group, which works to reduce the number of treatments using copper sulphate, since 2012. In 2021 they began the process of organic certification.
Laurent has always managed to pack in a lot alongside his running of the vineyard. He has his own plane which he flies to all corners of France, used keep and hunts hawks, and conducts the Chassagne brass band as well as dabbling in Mayoral duties - on top of being a father of three, Anaïs, Adrien and Eugène. They are all mad about the alps and disappear up the mountains at regular intervals.
Laurent's eldest son Adrien has been travelling the world making wine all over the place for the last few years having completed his training in Beaune. Bringing back lessons learnt in Australia, South Africa and California (and from a stint at Lea & Sandeman), During harvest Adrien is now the one in the winery while Laurent takes charge of the picking team. The wines have long been L&S favourites in both red and white - they represent excellent value, and they age very well too, despite being attractive young. The whites are precise and pure, and not lacking for body and generosity, while the reds are velvety and juicy, beautifully balanced even if drunk young on their expressive Pinot fruit. The domaine was rightfully heralded in Decanter Magazine as 'an address that deserves to be better-known'. Great value and real pleasure across their range.
Read more about Adrien here in this recent Forbes article here.
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