2020 PICHON COMTESSE 'LA RÉSERVE', Lea & Sandeman

PICHON COMTESSE 'LA RÉSERVE'

2023

Grapes Merlot, Cab Franc, Cab Sauv
Colour Red
Origin France, Bordeaux
Sub-district Haut Médoc
Village Pauillac
ABV 13%

The success of Pichon over recent years extends to its second wine also, and this delivers waves of cassis bud and red roses on the opening beats, followed up by vibrant raspberry and and blackberry fruits, easier drinking than the powerhouse 2022. A vintage that sees 50 years of Pichon Comtesse Reserve (once known, of course, as Reserve de la Comtesse). 55% of the production, more than usual because they were focusing so much on Cabernet for the main wine. Nicolas Glumineau director. Drinking range: 2028 - 2040 Rating: 93 Jane Anson, www.janeanson.com (May 2024)


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The 2023 Réserve de la Comtesse is fabulous. This is the first vintage in which Cabernet Sauvignon drives the blend, the result of extensive replanting over the years and vines that are now old enough to be used here. Among other things, that means the Réserve is more closely aligned with the Grand Vin in style, starting in the vineyard. Potent and explosive, the 2023 offers up a heady mélange of dark fruit, leather, spice, grilled herbs and lavender. It’s a stellar wine in every way. Tasted three times. Drinking range: 2028 - 2043 Rating: 92-94 Antonio Galloni, www.vinous.com (May 2024)

This is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% each Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this being the highest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, with reflects a program of replanting Cabernet Sauvignon instead of Merlot in the vineyard. This takes 55% of the crop, a little more than usual. The nose is beautifully expressive, with blackcurrant and dark chocolate, with dried cherry skins. This purity and honesty comes through on the palate, which is medium-bodied, with chocolate, violets and griottes, underpinned by tightly framed tannins and fresh rather zippy acidity. Beautifully succulent, dark, savoury, with a rich core of polished, tightly knit tannins, which sit in harmony in the finish with threads of dark chocolate. If there were a competition for best second wine in this vintage, this would surely be in the running. Tasted twice. The alcohol here is 13.07%. Rating: 91-93 Chris Kissack, www.thewinedoctor.com (Apr 2024)

A terrific second wine, the 2023 Resèrve de la Comtesse wafts from the glass with a pure bouquet of blackcurrants, dark berries, lilac and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's sensual and vibrant, with melting tannins and a deep core of cool fruit framed by polished but present tannins. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc marks the 50th anniversary of this second wine's production. Rating: 91-93 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (Apr 2024)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

Pauillac Deuxième cru 1855 Facing Château Latour across the road, at the southern end of Pauillac, are the twin Château Pichons. Originally one estate, the two were divided in 1850 on the death of Joseph Pichon. His son Raoul inherited the title of Baron de Longueville and the vineyards of Château Pichon Longueville Baron de Longueville, whilst his daughters inherited the portion that became Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The only daughter to produce off-spring was Marie-Laure who had married Comte Henri de Lalande in 1818 and it was her descendents, therefore, who shaped the future of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (or Pichon Comtesse as it is often more conveniently known). The two estates continued to be run as a single vineyard for another ten years, allowing them jointly to be awarded 2nd Growth status in 1855. Pichon Comtesse is now owned by the Rouzard family, owners of the Champagne house of Louis Roederer. Under the ownership of May de Lencquesaing in the final quarter of the 20th Century, the vineyard area of Pichon Comtesse grew from around 40ha to today's 75ha. The vines are 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, with the wine spending 18 months in wood (50% new). Pichon Comtesse produce one of the most highly regarded second wines - Réserve de la Comtesse (recently renamed Pichon Comtesse La Réserve') - which rivals many other estate's grand vins. The healthy reputation that Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande enjoys puts it clearly in the mould of a "super second" - those 2nd Growth estates who's wines merit comparison with the Premier Grand Cru Classés. Pichon Comtesse has had the better of comparisons with its sibling Pichon Baron whose fortunes waned during the 20th Century even if, today, they are on a more equal footing. It is inevitable that the two Pichons will be compared with one another, with Comtesse being a more subtle seductive wine than its slightly foresquare namesake.

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