Chalonnais
The Côte Chalonnaise is the continuation of the same escarpment as the Côte de Beaune, just a little way to the south, and consists of the villages of Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.
There are some producers, mainly centred in the Côte de Nuits, whose wine you will simply never see on shop shelves. Their wines are very expensive, but so extremely desirable that they sell out discreetly on release to deep pocketed fans.
This is now happening in the Côte Chalonnaise.
It sounds peculiar, as you would struggle to part with more than £50 for a bottle in this small region, but the reputations of producers like Lumpp, Raquillet and Dureuil-Janthial are so good, and thus so desirable, that they too are entering this realm of ‘on allocation only’.
This, to me, is the region you take the doubters, when you hear them crow about how ‘there is no value in Burgundy anymore’. There is, it’s here, and the 2022s exemplify this.
Jack Chapman, Head of Private Clients
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Domaine Ninot
Domaine Ninot has 13 hectares split 50/50 between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Rully and Rully 1er Cru in white and red, and 2 hectares of red Mercurey. They have been working organically since 2017, and the first vintage to be certified organic was 2020.
The domaine is run by Erell, who is in charge of the cellar and the commercial side, and her brother Flavien in the vineyard. The family has had roots in the region since the 14th century, and Erell and Flavien's grandfather was one of the leaders of the appellation of Rully when it was established in 1939. However he died when their father Pierre-Marie was only 14, and the domaine, split between five children, had to be sold. Pierre-Marie kept his part of the inheritance, 5 hectares of vines, and began again, gradually adding to the holdings by fermages and purchases. Once Erell had completed her studies in oenology and commerce, and had gained experience by working abroad, he handed over the keys to the cellar.
Erell is delighted to have 2022 in the cellar - a normal size vintage, the first since 2016. There were no real problems at all throughout the season. Really quite a typical modern year. Vintage was warm - with some 'secheresse', but there were also storms and plenty of water so the vines did not suffer. She loves the balance and approachability of the wines - which are almost all hard to resist right away!2023 RULLY BLANC 1er Cru Grésigny Domaine Ninot
Compared with La Barre prior, this is much more restrained on the nose. More elegant perhaps? It's not giving much away right now. However, there is more going on the palate. Good weight andCompared with La Barre prior, this is much more restrained on the nose. More elegant perhaps? It's not giving much away right now. However, there is more going on the palate. Good weight and mouthfeel, with some tropical fruit coming through. Good acidity and freshness but I think this could do with a few more years under cork for everything to come together.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 RULLY BLANC La Barre Domaine Ninot
More expressive on the nose than the Chaponniere. A bit more oak on the nose and the fruit is a bit riper with a hint of something tropical but it's very nicely balanced so nothing feels over theMore expressive on the nose than the Chaponniere. A bit more oak on the nose and the fruit is a bit riper with a hint of something tropical but it's very nicely balanced so nothing feels over the top. Good weight of fruit on the palate. A bit more grip too. Higher altitude vineyards help temper ripeness.L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
2023 RULLY BLANC Chaponnière Domaine Ninot
Quite restrained on the nose. Notes of pear, apple, white peach and a touch of oak but just a hint. A bit weightier on the palate. Some texture adds complexity. Nicely balanced. Quite restrained on the nose. Notes of pear, apple, white peach and a touch of oak but just a hint. A bit weightier on the palate. Some texture adds complexity. Nicely balanced. L&S (Nov 2024)
In Bond
P & M Jacqueson
The domaine was founded in 1946 by Henri Jacqueson and passed to his son Paul. Marie joined her father in 2006 and since 2015 she and her brother Pierre run the estate, now known simply as P&M Jacqueson. The domaine consists of 18 hectares of vines, mostly in Rully, but also 5 in Mercurey and some in Bouzeron. The team also tend vines owned by their neighbours and make some beautiful wines from other peoples' fruit that they themselves have worked all year.
Traditional methods meticulously applied inspire everything they do: the grapes are harvested by hand and vinified in classical fashion, before an élevage in barrel (up to 25% new wood for the reds, just 20% for the 1er Cru Whites). The domaine has become adept at a sophisticated use of barrels, the élevage here is key to the quality they consistently achieve.
Domaine Jeannin-Naltet
Benoît and Emilie Eschard moved to Mercurey in 2011 to take over Domaine Jeannin-Naltet. His family had owned and run this estate since 1858, but with his uncle retiring and no heir - they decided to take it on.
Not 'to the manor born' - Benoît left his successful engineering career in Paris to continue this long family history. Studying at the viticultural school in Beaune at the age of 35, before setting about bringing the estate up to date and beginning to maximise the huge potential here. No longer would they sell off their fruit in bulk. Benoit understood what this 9HA contiguous vineyard was capable of. Blessed with nearly 7HA of 1er cru sites including the 4.9HA monopole of Le Clos des Grands Voyens - he wanted to bottle their own wines and thank goodness he did.
His fastidious nature and open minded approach have seen the vineyards transformed. Re-vamping the farming completely with higher trellising, turning the soil and much more hands on work throughout the season ensures the finest fruit possible arrives at the cellar. With fruit now of the highest quality and Benoit has brought in detailed yet gentle processes in the winery, no more pumping and delicate ageing in a broad selection of oak from 7 different coopers - each selected to deal with parcel by parcel differences in the crop. These wines have risen quickly to the top of the Côte Chalonnaise tree. France's most important Wine Guide the 'Revue du Vin de France' - rates 6 domaines here at the highest level. Domaine Jeannin-Naltet becomes the 4th from this top 'set' to join the Lea & Sandeman list alongside the more famous names Francois Lumpp, Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, and Francois Raquillet. We are delighted to add them to our selection. These are sophisticated, precise wines that are full of charm and intrigue.
Domaine François Lumpp
François Lumpp started as a grower in the family domaine in 1977, but then separated from his brother and set up on his own with four hectares of vines in 1991. He and his wife Isabelle have gradually grown the vineyard to reach nine and a half hectares. They are delighted that they have now been joined by their daughter Anne-Cécile who is running the estate day to day now, assisted by her brother Pierre.
François remains a passionate viticulturalist and the family places great emphasis on making the wine in the vineyards, which are farmed with minimum intervention to allow the terroir to express itself fully. In practice this means very careful choice of plant material to give the highest quality results - often at the expense of yield. The mantra is certainly quality above quantity at this estate which has helped lock it in as an address to note for all lovers of fine Burgundy. It is no surprise that wine critic Tim Atkin MW described François Lumpp as the 'the best producer in Givry.' All the Lumpp wines offer great value for money - year after year.
Jean-Marc Boillot
Jean-Marc's daughter Lydie and son-in-law François Alzingre have worked alongside him and effectively run the domaine, and are now being joined by their children. Alongside the wines from the family's own vineyards, They also run a successful négociant business, vinifying wines from the Côte Chalonnaise with huge aplomb. In Montagny in particular, the wine is the best we have found in the appellation, and remarkably consistent from year to year.Domaine Raquillet
François took over the running of this estate from his father, Jean, in 1990, with his wife Emmanuelle. Records show that the same family have made wine in Mercurey since the 1600s, and Francois is the eleventh generation. His daughter Jeanne now works alongside François slowly taking over the day to day work of the domaine, her passion is really viticulture - so she loves her work in the vineyards and represents the 12th generation at the helm of this stellar property.
With eleven hectares under vine, François has substantially reduced yields over the years, introduced higher quality oak barrels (up to 50% new wood for the Premiers Crus) and significantly increased the quality of wines made here. He and Jeanne explain that they try to avoid over-extraction at all costs - their one aim is to deliver the beautifully pure fruit profile they get out of the old vines - they do this with great success. It is a wonderfully transparent style - combined with good mid-palate weight.
Thankfully there were smiles all around this year once again and the sad story of the terrible run of vintages here (in terms of yield) has finally paused. 2022 was back to more normal levels at harvest and the superb 2023 has also kept the cellar well filled. These wines are great value across the range.