'Jean-Louis Denois' is the principal wine from maverick champenois Jean-Louis Denois, who makes this from the champagne grapes of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but down south near Limoux. Every time we put it into a tasting it gets new fans and lovely write-ups. If you just want to stick to a budget and it won't stretch to one of our Champagnes, have this instead - it is certainly 'better', as Jancis says in one of these notes, 'than cheap Champagne'.

It is also worth taking a look at the even cheaper light fresh Blanc de Blancs and pinky-charming 'Brut Classique', and the new addition to the range looks like a winner. 'Bulles de Syrah' is made, as you might have guessed, fro the red Syrah grape, and once you know that you sort of do get a sense of it in a northern Rhône sort of way - there's an aroma of scented black fruit, and a firm freshness. Intriguing and definitely worth trying!