Chablis

As with all of Burgundy in 2023, Chablis is largely a good news story – yields were high and ripening was well balanced, behind the likes of 2020 and 2019, but with plenty of substance. The warm weather towards the end of the season has given us a more forward style of Chablis, although the style of each producer is still very clearly defined and reflective of their terroir. They are very pleasurable, intense and accessible wines.

It is worth highlighting here, more than anywhere else, that 2024 hit Chablis harder than even the Côte de Nuits. Producers will be putting out next to zero wine next year, with many plots needing to be blended and de-classified out of sheer necessity.

In short, if you see yourself needing Chablis in the next three years, please grab this opportunity with both hands as it is about to become a very scarce commodity.


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Domaine des Hâtes

Pierrick Laroche's father farms cereals, and was not very concerned with his family's vineyard, the production of which was sold to the co-operative. Pierrick took them out of the co-operative, and 2010 was his first vintage making wine under his own label.

Pierrick is clearly a very talented winemaker. He currently manages 25 hectares of vines in Petit Chablis, Chablis and Premier Cru, with additional fruit being bought to make his Beauroy and Grand Cru Bougros.

In preparation for bottling under his own name from 2010 onwards Pierrick stopped using pesticides and herbicides in 2009 and has since then manually worked the soil - this great change in practices has seen superb results in the quality of fruit he is now picking.

It is all about freshness and precision here. Classical, deeply mineral wines. Picking perhaps earlier than some of his neighbours Pierrick captures beautiful acidity and brightness of fruit - he then loves giving the wine a long élevage in tank to build texture and weight and complexity. He is not averse to using oak - but it is done at a very minimal level, not systematic - but always sympathetic to the vintage. The Premier and Grand Cru wines do go into oak - but no new wood - and a greatly reduced number of traditional smaller barrels - with Pierrick preferring to use the more subtle Demi-Muids for the majority of the wines' élevage. The results are bright, elegant wines but with a real shape and feel - classical, but interesting Chablis.

2023 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine des Hâtes

2023 CHABLIS 1er Cru Beauroy Domaine des Hâtes

50% is aged in Oak for 10 months - the rest in large steel tanks. Average age of oak is 4-5 years - so he balances any new additions with even older barrels. Pierrick is very keen to preserve the50% is aged in Oak for 10 months - the rest in large steel tanks. Average age of oak is 4-5 years - so he balances any new additions with even older barrels. Pierrick is very keen to preserve the fruit and let this great vineyard speak. The 2023 Beauroy is very charming, but thankfully you never lose sight of the good mineral, Chablis line. Really works. You can certainly feel the warm season - but this has good fresh character that builds too - nice texture and mineral push - not lean and pure, 2023 was too warm for that - but with the oak too this gives good counter to the fruit. Oak ageing is 75% in big format and 25% in traditional barrel. L&S (Oct 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

2023 CHABLIS 1er Cru Butteaux Domaine des Hâtes

2023 CHABLIS 1er Cru Butteaux Domaine des Hâtes

All raised in oak of which 75% is in larger foudres and demi-muids and 25% in traditional barrels. Partly practical as he does not have more space in the tanks this year, thanks to the bumperAll raised in oak of which 75% is in larger foudres and demi-muids and 25% in traditional barrels. Partly practical as he does not have more space in the tanks this year, thanks to the bumper crop. More lees left here by Pierrick during the élevage - and the wine has super freshness. Better and more juicy acidity than the Beauroy. Small berries so yield is half the others. But quality is superb. Problem is caused by a virus in this parcel of vines which limits the growth and productivity of the vine. But Pierrick loves the result so he is not replacing the vines. Even if it is not the most commercial site. L&S (Oct 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

2023 CHABLIS Grand Cru Bougros Maison des Hâtes

2023 CHABLIS Grand Cru Bougros Maison des Hâtes

An imposing grand cru. Charming to taste, but darker and quite full on. Well measured and balanced. There's big impact on the palate - without the detail yet that easy to read. Broad and charming ifAn imposing grand cru. Charming to taste, but darker and quite full on. Well measured and balanced. There's big impact on the palate - without the detail yet that easy to read. Broad and charming if not explosive today. Loaded with lovely weighty, ripe fruit. It's all here - a smart and complete Grand Cru that just needs time to become more expressive,L&S (Oct 2024)

75cl bottles, case of 6

In Bond

Domaine Denis Pommier

Founded when the Pommiers inherited 2 hectares of vines in 1990. Isabelle and Denis bottled their first wine in 1994 and now have 18 hectares of vineyards, which are run according to biodynamic principles (which have sadly cost them dearly in terms of lost crop in 2016 and 2017).

The Petit Chablis is a model of brisk freshness - made entirely in stainless steel. The two named 'lieu-dits' of Chablis 'village', Les Reinettes and Croix aux Moines, are about a hectare in total. It's a north-facing slope which catches the sun late in the day. Reinettes is on pure Kimmeridgian clay, under Croix au Moines, which is on a thinner soil at the top of the hill, both in the same sector as Côte de Léchet. The Premiers Crus benefit from a small amount of barrel-fermentation and élevage. The Troësmes (a small parcel within the larger premier cru 'Beauroy' which the Pommiers think deserves to be identified by its correct name) is relatively rounder, while the Côte de Léchet is the one for fans of the slatier, crystalline side of minerality. Keep either of the premiers crus four to six years.

Domaine Moreau-Naudet

A domaine of 25 hectares, of which 3 are in Petit Chablis, 11 or 12 in Chablis, 3 in Vaillons, 2 in Forets, 1.6 in Montmains, 0.86 in Montée de Tonnerre, and 0.58 in Valmur. (Yes, this does not make 25 - there are further parcels of young vines in the Courgis sector - Beauregards, Côte de Jouan and Goulotte, which are currently sold in bulk).

Virginie (Mimi) Moreau has long since proven to be more than equal to the task of taking over from her husband Stéphane. Stéphane, who was influenced by Vincent Dauvissat (who recommended him to us many years ago, and who remains an influence here) was vigneron whose star burned very brightly, and the domaine continues along the lines he set, working organically, hand-picking, aiming for optimum maturity while avoiding any botrytis influence.

The cellar-work is also masterful, using 30% barrel-élevage for all the Premier and the Grand Cru, but not in such a way that oakiness can readily be detected in the wines (all the barrels are steamed rather than charred and there is no new oak except for in the straight Chablis, and then only one barrel per 100hl in order to age it prior to using for the Premiers Crus).

Mimi's daughter Neil (Nelle) is a bright new addition to the team here and together there is a calm confidence in what they are doing, and the wines - full of racy character, textural depth and complexity, seem to be better with every vintage.

Domaine Laurent Tribut

Laurent Tribut is married to Vincent Dauvissat's sister, Marie Clotilde. When he started he made his wines in the Dauvissat cellar in Chablis, but now this small family-run domaine is based in Poinchy. Laurent has now officially retired and has handed over to three of their four children (Solange, Adeline and Gabriel), with Solange taking the lead in the winery. With Laurent’s guidance the future here looks very bright.

With just 6 hectares the quantities are small - but the quality of all the cuvées is extraordinary. Pure, powerfully driven, classically shaped there is more than a passing similarity to the wines of his brother-in-law, the head-line grabbing Vincent Dauvissat. Buyers will enjoy these long-lived wines with some time in bottle too - they have a great ability to age and patience will pay off.

Domaine Solange Tribut

Solange Tribut is the daughter of Laurent Tribut, whose excellent Chablis we have sold successfully for years, and the niece of the highly regarded Vincent Dauvissat. The family tradition for expressive yet pure Chablis is safe in her hands. Her wines are very classically shaped. Light on their toes - pithy with lovely citrus highs and great clean lines. Super value wines with great heritage.

Domaine Vincent Dauvissat

A domaine of 12.7 hectares, comprising a hectare each of the Grands Crus Clos and Preuses, 3.7ha of Premier Cru Forest, 1.3ha of Vaillons, 0.4ha of Séchet, .3ha of Montée de Tonnerre, 3.3ha of Chablis, 1.1ha of Petit Chablis, and .6ha of Irancy (red).

Vincent Dauvissat remains one of the (if not the) leading lights of Chablis, and his wines are always in high demand and limited volume.

Vincent's grandfather Robert was the first to start bottling under the family name in 1931 and he uses the same cellar today - but the family have been growing grapes here since the 18th century. Today his single-minded determination in the vineyard, where he follows biodynamic principles (without certification) followed by very subtle use of old oak barrels as part of a long élevage, produce some of Chablis' most age-worthy and fascinating wines.

THE DEMAND FOR THESE WINES FAR EXCEEDS SUPPLY AND THEY ARE ESSENTIALLY ALL ALLOCATED FROM YEAR TO YEAR

Domaine Drouhin Vaudon

The Beaune-based merchant Joseph Drouhin has restyled its Chablis Domaine 'Domaine Drouhin-Vaudon' to emphasise its ties with and holdings in (38 hectares) the Chablis vineyard. The Moulin de Vaudon, an 18th Century watermill straddling the Serein River, close to the Grand Cru vineyards of Chablis, is the headquarters and the source of the name. It is the largest estate in Chablis entirely farmed biodynamically.