CHARMES CHAMBERTIN
2011 Grand Cru Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Roses on the nose! Very rich and smooth feel, lovely weight and juiciness. Perfect in its supple richness and opulence, with just enough of an undertow of tannin to be straight and true. Pepper, spicy final note - very lively.L&S (Jan 2013)
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The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a pleasant, earthy, rather stemmy bouquet, although there are just about carried by the brambly red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy, strict, rather obdurate tannin, quite solid in the mouth and just a touch of greenness towards the finish. This comes across like a “grumpy” Charmes-Chambertin and I would be inclined to leave this for another couple of years. Drinking range: 2020 - 2035 Rating: 90 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (May 2019)
Bright medium red. Musky aromas of strawberry, raspberry and smoke, complicated by mineral and animal fur notes: very Gevrey. Tighter in the mouth than the Echezeaux, with lovely inner-mouth floral lift and precision to the berry, spice and rose petal flavors. The firmly tannic but essentially supple finish calls for five years of cellaring. The 2012 version of the Charmes shows a distinctly blacker fruit quality, while this is red. Rating: 92 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Mar 2014)
This is also notably ripe with aromas of warm earth, plum, black cherry and humus. There is exceptional richness, size, weight and power to the full-bodied, concentrated and driving flavors that brim with an abundance of mouth coating and tannin-buffering dry extract on the hugely long finish. Note that very much like the Echézeaux, this is built for the long-term and will require plenty of patience. 2029+ Rating: 92-95 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2013)
Just a touch below the quality of Yves Confuron’s Echézeaux in 2011, this is quite a structured Charmes, thanks to the presence of 100% stems. Dark and brooding, with serious tannins and a sappy, refreshing finish. 2017-28 Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Dec 2012)
This has plenty of aromatic expression. Smooth and generous. Full and really quite rich. Plenty of substance and it is fresh and vibrant on the finish. This is a good Charmes-Chambertin and fresh on the finish. Very fine. From 2018 Rating: 18.9 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2012)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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