VOSNE ROMANÉE
2011 1er Cru Suchots Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Rich with bosky undergrowth notes, warm earth. Palate suave, opulent even, pure and juicy with a juty strength of texture behind it. Long as you like. Fab.L&S (Jan 2013)
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Good medium red. Lovely floral lift to the aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices. Fine-grained and light on its feet; seamless, precise and energetic, with enticing inner-mouth perfume to the dark flavors of blackberry, cassis, and violet. Sneaky density and depth. Finishes vibrant and very long, with suave tannins. A beauty. Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Dec 2014)
Lighter, red, raspberry-like fruit. Light and zesty on the palate. Fine grained tannins. An edge of herbal. Quite spiky. Red peppercorn piquancy. It does not have quite the density of matter of the 2012. It finds a lighter balance. From 2018 Rating: 18 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2014)
There is a lot of rich fruit on the nose and fleshy power on the palate. Black fruits appear to dominate an attractive sweetness of flavour but there is freshness towards the back that lifts the flavours and gives a slightly lighter feel to the finish. 2015-22 Drinking range: 2015 - 2022 Rating: 93 Derek Smedley MW, www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk (Dec 2013)
Not too much nose. Rather luscious on the palate. Some real intensity. But there is drive and persistence here too. 2017-2027 Drinking range: 2017 - 2027 Rating: 17 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2013)
(the domaine is the largest holder in Suchots with an incredible 2.16 ha). An expressive and intensely spicy and wonderfully floral nose of black and blue pinot fruit introduces velvety and palate coating flavors that possess plenty of size and weight as well as an abundance of sappy dry extract. While the mid-palate is quite generous the finale is very serious and I particularly like the excellent depth on the stunningly long finish. This offers grand cru level quality in 2011 and is definitely recommended. 2025+ Rating: 91-94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jan 2013)
Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Dec 2012)
Deep, rich red aroma. This has velvet depth and gorgeous dark fruit. Satin at first and becomes deep crushed velvet in texture. It moves richly, yet not at all heavily. It is so very sensual. There is lovely freshness on the finish. Fine+. From 2017 Rating: 18.5 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Nov 2012)
Domaine J. Confuron Cotetidot
Vignerons since the seventeenth century, the Confuron family has always selected and propagated vines to ensure that their plant material produces the highest quality, and they even have a clone of Pinot named after them - 'Pinot Confuron'.
The domaine has several Grands Cru vineyards as well as two hectares of the great Vosne Romanée Premier Cru 'Les Suchots'. There are around 12 hectares in all. The vines have never seen chemical weedkillers, and are ploughed and managed organically.
The Confurons have always used whole-bunch fermentation, picking very late, which really is a necessity if the stems are to be properly ripe and not give green flavours to the wine. A bit like the Thévenets with their whites in the Mâconnais, they pick so much later that they can seem to have different vintages to everyone else. Yves thinks that 2007 was their great vintage of the first decade of this millennium, and he'd probably be the only grower in the Côte de Nuits who would say that. Yves also makes the wines at Domaine de Courcelin Pommard, in the same way.
Yves, opinionated and laconical as ever, dismisses those who make pale wines by 'infusion' and says that failing to get the whole bunches properly ripe - and using all the bunch - is failing to get everything the terroir can offer. The wines he makes are dark, richly concentrated, and often hard to taste in their development, but experience shows that they age brilliantly. Defending his decision to pick late, he once said 'you miss the differentiation between vintages' if you don't - making 'cut-and-paste' wines which are the same every year... if you pay for a seat at the opera, you don't want to hear a variety singer'.
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