CORTON CLOS DU ROI
2012 Grand Cru Domaine Chandon de Briailles
'Quite floral' says Claude, and indeed it starts with high-toned aromatics, but it has got good black fruit depth and firm mineral core and drive and chewy tannic persistence. Very straight.L&S (Jan 2014)
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(this has the highest average vine age of these grands crus at 40+ years of age). An intensely earthy and sauvage nose displays plenty of floral character along with ripe dark ripe fruit scents. There is outstanding concentration and power to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess a taut muscularity and wonderful vibrancy on the mineral-inflected and hugely long finish. This is markedly structured and I while this is absolutely splendid, I would recommend it only for those who intend to cellar it for the long-term as it won’t play especially well in the sandbox when young. 2027+ Rating: 94 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Apr 2014)
Good bright red. Redcurrant, red cherry, rose petal and clove on the nose and palate. Rounder, creamier and sweeter in the mouth than the Bressandes, showing more obvious oakiness and rather Corton Charlemagne-like notes of white pepper and white truffle. Hasn't quite the grip or energy of the Bressandes but this is longer and riper Rating: 92-94 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Jan 2014)
Domaine Chandon de Briailles
One of the great family domaines of the Côte d'Or, housed in the remarkable manor house at Savigny, with excellent holdings in Savigny itself and in neighbouring Pernand and on the hill of Corton. Organic since 1988 and, now, biodynamic (fully certified by Demeter and Ecocert). It is run by brother and sister François and Claude de Nicolaÿ. As François explains, they do not make 'bêtes de concours' or competition wines, but ones you drink. They have over the last few years progressed the renewal of the barrels of the domaine - there is still very little actual new wood, 5% new wood on the premiers crus, and 10% on the Grands crus, but they have replaced the oldest barrels which they have come to understand did have an effect of closing the wines down.
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