MEURSAULT
2012 Narvaux Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi explains that this is up above the premiers crus, so is a cooler spot and needs waiting for, but it repays the wait with 'super minerality and density'. Quite a deep yellow-green gold, a broad attack contains a lot of savoury flavour. Mouthwatering. Very supple. There is a chew to this too. Very long and the richness of flavour takes another bound forward.L&S (Dec 2013)
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Bright, light yellow. Fresh apricot, mint and a hint of wild herbs on the nose. Dense, sappy and young, but already showing lovely inner-mouth perfume to the flavors of fresh stone fruits and crushed stone. Strong acidity nicely buffers the wine's subtle sweetness and extends the stony, rising finish. Showing well now but this very youthful wine is built to age. Rating: 91(+?) Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Sept 2014)
There is a discreet application of pain grillé perceptible on the otherwise heavily reduced nose. Here too there is good volume but with better precision marking the mouth feel of the medium weight flavors that possess a lovely bead of minerality that adds lift to the clean, persistent, mildly austere and notably dry finish. 2018+ Rating: 89-91 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2014)
This sample from pieces. Tight, pure and bright. Lovely acidity. This is finer, high toned. Taut onto the finish with a bright shimmer of minerality. From Foudres. Pure, singing and bright. It is tense and zesty and well defined. Seems more energetic than in the pieces and vibrant. Particularly good. From 2015 Rating: 17 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Feb 2014)
Rating: 93 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
Interesting flinty vibrancy here, and powerful, pushy green apple fruit. Fine-tuned; lovely sparky acidity on the finish. 2014-2022 Rating: 17+ Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
The 2012 Meursault Les Narvaux comes from 40 and 50-year old vines in the lieu-dit “Narvaux-Dessus” that was purchased in 2008. It has more potency on the nose compared to the En Luraule and the Sous la Velle, whilst the palate is crisp and taut with good focus and impressive tension on the vibrant finish. This is another great Narvaux – premier cru in all but name as far as I am concerned. Rating: 90-92 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2014)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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