POUILLY FUISSÉ
2012 Vieilles Vignes Les Crays Domaine Daniel Barraud
Arguably as mineral as the 'La Roche' but in quite another style, the les Crays is both more open and more floatingly aerial. Sherbety pear fruit. All but impossible not to swallow so perfect is the balance.L&S (Jan 2014)
* This is a pre-shipment/primeur offer. All orders are accepted under the TERMS of this offer which differ from the terms of the rest of the site.
The 2012 Pouilly Fuissé les Crays Vieilles Vignes comes from vines residing behind the family maison in a warmer microclimate compared to En Verchere. It has a ripe and almost candied bouquet with hints of citrus lemon, crème caramel and nutmeg, hints of white chocolate developing with aeration. The palate is very cohesive and harmonious, the citrus element slightly more pronounced here and lending this Pouilly-Fuisse great tension and vibrancy, showing very good weight and persistency toward the finish, then there is a wonderful long and nuanced salted licorice aftertaste. Drinking range: 2014 - 2020 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Oct 2014)
Rating: 91 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
Slighter than their La Roche, but still very satisfying and full on the palate. Good, conventional fruit character – perhaps a bit lacking beyond that. 2015-2020 Rating: 16.5 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
(from 60+ year old vines located in Vergisson). Once again strong fermentation aromas render the nose impossible to accurately evaluate. This is distinctly backwards and tight with plenty of minerality on the explosive and highly energetic middle weight flavors that exude a mouth coating dry extract before culminating in a beautifully long and moderately austere finish that really fans out. Impressive. 2017+ Rating: 91-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Oct 2013)
Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
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