SAINT AUBIN
2012 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière Domaine Hubert Lamy
Vibrant and expressive. A bit bigger volume in the mouth than the Frionnes, but much more expression, sunny and open. Lovely succulent tension, and very long on the finish.L&S (Dec 2013)
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Lamy is one of the glamorous names in a commune increasingly sough after for its good value. Here, old vines yield a stimulating wine with great energy. Victoria Moore, The Daily Telegraph (Jun 2017)
One of a number of excellent white Burgundies from this fine Côte de Beaune producer, this 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière has a nice degree of age on it as a result of which the aromas have gained in complexity, while the full-flavoured peachy fruit of the Chardonnay is focused by a well-crafted nuttiness and polished by subtle oak. Rating: 91 The Wine Gang - www.thewinegang.com (Jun 2017)
Flinty smoky aromas on the nose marking this as a reductive style of Chardonnay, with a lovely white peach scent on the palate. Concentrated, fibrous, mouthfilling - though the very slight oxidative hint on the finish suggests this should be drunk soon. Rating: 17 Richard Hemming MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Mar 2017)
(worked entirely by hand as the vineyard has a 40% slope which ensures that it receives plenty of sun) Here the reduction is more marked and it's sufficiently strong that I would advise decanting this in your going to try a bottle in its youth. This is notably more refined with excellent delineation to the intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors that conclude in a linear and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is sneaky long and I very much like the way the backend fans out plus this should amply reward extended cellaring. This is highly recommended. 2019+ Rating: 92 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2014)
Rating: 92 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2014)
I thought that the Hubert Lamy Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière ’12 had beautiful energy and complexity, all woodruff and movement. “That wine’s a mind‑‑‑‑,” shouted my brilliant taster friend Joe as he tried it. Yep.Victoria Moore, The Daily Telegraph (Jan 2014)
Sweet, ripe and opulent lemon cream on the nose. Lots of matter and then marked acidity. The acidity suggests holding on to this for a while. Almost lime-like. 2016-2020 Rating: 16 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
More oak spice than on the En Remilly. Richer and more determined but still lovely harmony of fruit and oak. Mouthwatering freshness to the end. 2015-2018 Rating: 16.5 Julia Harding MW, www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2014)
The 2012 St. Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere comes from Olivier’s 1.24-hectare of vines planted in 1964. It possesses quite a sophisticated bouquet that thinks it comes from Puligny – a premier cru at that. The palate is vivacious and buoyant in the mouth, interwoven with crisp acidity through green apple, lime and minerals on the chalky, lively finish that lingers long in the mouth. Excellent Rating: 91-93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Jan 2014)
This is very fresh on the attack. The ripeness here reflects its south expression. Nicely rounded and concentrated with balancing savoury minerality and good focus at the end of the palate. It has density and cold minerals, without the power and layered structure of a 2010. It was so cold in the cellar. It may show more later. To taste again. Particularly good+. Rating: 17.25 Sarah Marsh MW, The Burgundy Briefing (Dec 2013)
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Olivier Lamy has built on the solid foundations his father Hubert prepared with twenty years and more of work in the vineyards. Today the Domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines - 80% are Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The vines are in several appellations - Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, as well as the excellent Bourgogne Blanc. The reputation of the domaine is now made, but the Saint Aubins, both red and white, remain some of the bargains of Côte d'Or, and challenge the supposed superiority of the grander village names on a regular basis, both in terms of young and mature wines.
Olivier's wine-making style and preference is to emphasise the fresh and the mineral side of his wines, and there is very little new wood in this cellar, with many wines with no new wood at all, and that is with the wines in 600 litre demi-muids rather that the classic Burgundy (225 litre) fût. Certainly Oliver's whites do have an arrow-like purity and intensity, and seem to age completely straight and true.
The reds are worth more than a casual mention too. Olivier has been getting some consultation help from Sylvain Pataille, and the wines have energy and bounce along with the supple tannins and ripeness.
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