POUILLY FUISSÉ
2015 Vieilles Vignes En Buland Domaine Daniel Barraud
Quite dense yet weirdly elegant nose, intense peach flesh, citrus and white flowers. On the palate there is a thickness to the fruit, fig and peach, yet an acidity that makes you salivate followed by a creaminess. L&S (Nov 2016)
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Rating: 94 Tim Atkin MW, www.timatkin.com (Jan 2018)
(13.8% alcohol): Bright medium yellow. A bit more classic and less open on the nose than the Sûr La Roche, hinting at peach, pineapple, smoky minerality, nuts, marzipan, clove and nutmeg. A powerful, dense, seriously mouthfilling wine with deep, silky yellow fruit flavors nicely framed by ripe acidity. A large-scaled Pouilly-Fuissé from a yield no higher than 45 hectoliters per hectare. Surprisingly smooth and very long on the end, less phenolic than most of its 2015 siblings. The incredible Roto-Rooter of a finish erases everything in its path. Drinking range: 2018 - 2026 Rating: 93 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar (Nov 2017)
The 2015 Pouilly Fuisse en Bulands Vieilles Vignes comes from vines with similar terroir as the Les Crays but with a westerly orientation and older vines, around 83 years in age. It has a very harmonious bouquet, tender at first with white flower, honeysuckle and apricot blossom aromas that reveal their more mineral side with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, lively and tensile with a captivating sense of salinity on the long finish. This is one of the best 2015s from Barraud and comes highly recommended. Drinking range: 2019 - 2030 Rating: 93 Neal Martin, www.vinous.com (Sept 2017)
(65+ year old vines near Solutré that face north east). Like the Les Crays, here the nose mostly consists of essence of pear and apple aromas where exotic nuances of tea, spice and lychee nut can be found. There is flat out incredible richness to the concentrated and overtly opulent flavors that possess a lush mouth feel yet despite all of the size and weight, the supporting acid spine manages to keep everything in the proper balance on the powerful, persistent and hugely long finale. This is a notably big and imposing but not heavy effort. Impressive and while it will age, it should also drink well young if that’s your preference. 2020+ Rating: 90-93 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Dec 2016)
(made from the oldest vines of the domain at 80 years of age; the exposition here is north/northwest, bringing cool nights; 30% new oak): Full medium yellow. Superripe, almost honeyed scents of peach, apricot, pineapple and quince. Highly concentrated and powerful but very tight, conveying strong, mouthfilling salty mineral extract. This is almost too big for the mouth but without any heaviness. An outstanding mineral expression, from a crop level of 45 hectoliters per hectare. Real old-vines intensity here. Rating: 92-94 Stephen Tanzer, www.vinousmedia.com (Oct 2016)
Domaine Barraud
We still see Daniel Barraud when we visit but today his children Julien and Anaïs are at the helm here now. They have vineyards in Vergisson that are mostly high up under the famous rock (Vergisson lies between the two dramatic cliffs of the rocks of Solutré and Vergisson). The vineyards here are significantly higher than those of Fuissé, and are consequently later-ripening, and the wines often have a more solid structure - but they each have their own distinct characters, from the Puligny-like directness of the La Roche to the fat richness of the 'en Buland', via the mineral force of the Crays.
All the wines are made keeping close to the tenets of bio-dynamics - not for the sake of it - but because over the generations experience has taught them that these principles really are the best way forward - as such they only ever bottle on a waning moon. All the wines see some barrel ageing apart from the Chaintré, which is aged in foudre (2/3) and tank.
As Allen Meadows wrote on www.Burghound.com 'I have said this before, but I will say it again: no one makes better wine in the Mâconnais than Barraud. There are a few domaines that produce wines that are sometimes just as good, ... but none of them surpasses the quality he consistently produces. If you aren’t familiar with the wines, you owe it to yourself and your pocketbook to check them out.'
With the 2022 releases this 11 HA domaine is now officially certified organic. Formalising the way they have been working for years.
The Barrauds have four vineyards that have been upgraded to Premier Cru status: 'En France', 'Les Crays', 'Sur la Roche', and la Verchère, although this last one will change its name to 'La Maréchaude' but retaining the parcel name of Verchère too. It's one of those oddities of such classifications that the vineyard which has consistently produced the Barraud's best wine for all the years that we have known them, 'En Buland', is not classified Premier Cru status as it faces north - this is electric in 2022.
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