BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR BLANC
2019 BOURGOGNE CÔTE D'OR Blanc Vieilles Vignes Domaine Rémi Jobard
9 parcels, all touching Meursault 'village'. Quite tight initially, but there's a sneaky little sweetness of fruit just under the surface here, which adds to the impression of ripe fruit juiciness. Citrussy, fresh and so pure - lovely as usual. Drinking range: 2021 - 2028L&S (Oct 2020)
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Pretty aromas are comprised by notes of petrol, acacia and essence of poached pear. There is better intensity and delineation to the succulent middle weight flavors that conclude in a more complex and markedly dry finale where a hint of bitter lemon rind adds a touch of lift. Drinking range: 2023 - Rating: 86-89 Allen Meadows, www.Burghound.com (Jun 2021)
A huge step up on the straight BB, this is an imposing wine made from parcels of vines all surrounding Meursault and it looks suitably grand. Wearing a strong Jobard signature this is a great way of experiencing this estates wine style but without shelling out too much cash. Rating: 17.5+ Matthew Jukes www.matthewjukes.com (Jan 2021)
Cask sample. Creamy, hazelnut nose – very much more complex than the Bourgogne Blanc from this producer. Really chiselling and fine. Drinking range: 2021 - 2026 Rating: 16.5 Jancis Robinson OBE MW - www.JancisRobinson.com (Jan 2021)
All domaine, made from nine plots of, which three are in Les Pellands. All, but one plot is over 40 years old. Clear, pure colour and a noticeably more refined nose, in a different league from the straight Bourgogne. Crystalline. The wine fattens out just a little at the back, but this is very classy and exceptionally long for Bourgogne Blanc, with the faintest sucrosity. Tasted: October 2020 **** Rating: 87-90 Jasper Morris - Inside Burgundy (Oct 2020)
Domaine Rémi Jobard
Rémi has been making small qualitative changes ever since he took over here in 1996. The entire vineyard is cordon-pruned, so yields are naturally limited. There has been no use of fertiliser since 1994, and the vineyard is grassed-over to encourage the vine roots to go deep. The domaine has been certified organic from 2008. He says that the two most important things are the absence of weedkiller (and thus the necessity to plough, which cuts any surface roots and makes the vine go deeper) and not adding any fertiliser which again makes the roots go deeper to find nutrients.
Rémi has two vast presses, to enable him to press very slowly over six hours, and this has resulted in a big jump in finesse. The élevage now lasts nearly fifteen months, so as to allow the wines to develop slowly and to avoid fining. As a result these are wines which take a moment to show, but which reward the patient with complexity and great depth of flavour.
Rémi made a move from traditional barrels to foudres made of a mix of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, constructed by Austrian cooper Stockinger, and having added a new one (or two) each year, there's barely a normal barrel left. He likes the way the wines develop in these large volumes, in which the 'oaking' effect is minimised.
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